THE TURKISH REPUBLIC OF NORTH CYPRUS

Last year, we visited the southern part of Cyprus, and this year we sampled the north – now officially known as the
Turkish Republic of North Cyprus (TRNC). The island has a very long and chequered history, having been subjected to
a wide variety of rulers, culminating finally in achieving independence in 1960. Tensions between the Greek and Turkish
populations resulted in the start of intercommunal fighting in 1963. An attempt to annex the island to Greece in 1974
prompted the Turks to invade the north of Cyprus, evicting much of the north's Greek Cypriot population, causing the
flight of Turkish Cypriots from the south, and the partitioning of the island, leading to a unilateral declaration of
independence by the North in 1983. A buffer zone controlled by the United Nations separates the two countries.
TRNC is recognized only by Turkey, and it is not possible to fly into the north from any other country.

Since the 1974 invasion, attempts to reach a solution have been unsuccessful, though the situation is easing and
discussions are still ongoing. However, the Turkish army still maintains a large force in the north, comprising more
than 10% of the population, and there are vast tracts of land under military control, surrounded by barbed wire fencing
and severe restrictions on photography – not particularly conducive to tourism, which the north seems eager to encourage!

We found the military presence at times rather oppressive (see the caption to St. Hilarion Castle). More depressing, however,
were the number of once-beautiful and ancient Byzantine churches (so cherished and well-preserved in the south) which have
been defaced, vandalized and left to decay, though there are now some attempts at restoration of these treasures.
It was, nevertheless, a fascinating contrast to the south, images from which can be seen here.