From Delhi I went to Gwalior, then to Orchha and on to Khajuraho. At Gwalior I visited Usha Kiran, a wonderful hotel in a former palace, where I wish I'd stayed; the rambling fort, which sprawls over a hilltop; and the Maharajah's enormous palace in the city centre. Orchha is a village that isn't shown on most maps but is becoming popular because of its striking temples. I stayed in a place among ruins with spectacular views over the surrounding area. A dusty day's drive took me to Khajuraho, which likewise is not usually shown on maps despite its fame.