On day 5, the Palace on Wheels visits Ranthambor tiger reserve and the fort at Chittaugarh. Ranthambor was a bitter disappointment. Since my first visit in '89, the park's tiger population has been literally decimated by poaching so, not surprisingly, we saw no tigers and indeed very little else. There are more animals painted on the side of the train than we saw that day. Then the train travelled from late morning to late afternoon to reach Chittaurgarh. Those peaceful hours spent sitting on my bed in the train, watching the Rajasthan scenery flit by, were absolute bliss. We toured the fort, a group of ruins sprawling over a hilltop, for an hour or two while the sun set.