Photos of a visit to Jaffna in November 2012.
From Kandy I drove northwards again to Jaffna, again in a hired car. The railway line is out of service owing to war damage, and no scheduled flights exist, so travel to Jaffna has to be by road. As you drive further north but before you reach Kilinochchi the scenery becomes drab and you see evidence of the recent war, such as damaged houses. At Kilinochchi and Elephant Pass the government has erected memorials to its final military actions against the Tamil forces, and the bleakness of the landscape combined with leaden skies creates a sombre mood. It is easy to believe that you have entered a recent war zone.
As you approach Jaffna, damaged houses become more common, as does reconstruction by government and private interests. Yet a lot of work remains to be done. In central Jaffna, for instance, the main roads are gravel and pot-holed, with enormous puddles after rain.
I stayed for two nights at Tilko Jaffna City Hotel, the best hotel in town - not that there is much to choose from. It is comfortable and centrally located.
On my first night I explored the city centre briefly and had dinner at the Malayan Cafe, which serves veg curry on banana leaves, just like Tamil Nadu.
Next day being Sunday I thought little would be open so I explored the Jaffna Peninsula by car - see separate gallery. For dinner I went to Manattrii, a small guest house in a 19th-century traditional house, where dinner is served outdoors on the wooden porch.
On Monday I spent more time exploring the city, then left just before lunch to begin the southward journey.