The mysteries of Pohnpei, Micronesian island of rain-drenched forests, dense mangroves and long-abandoned stone cities, only deepen through a glass of paralysing sakau.

The Germans built a belltower and a naval cemetery; the Spaniards left a crumbling city wall. Japanese colonists set up their guns on the ridge above the harbour and bequeathed a taste for sashimi, cubed tuna, whilst nickels and dimes, ball games and yellow school buses are tangible reminders of the post-war US stewardship of these former Trust Territories, now more or less independent as the Federated States of Micronesia.

Before the foreigners came, the Saudeleurs were lords of all they surveyed. Legends tell how they built the ruined stone city of Nan Madol to rise up out of the seas from Sounahleng, the reef of heaven; how their reign was overturned by a legendary hero and his followers, the forefathers of today’s chiefly class. Read more on my blog.

These images are from journeys around 1998-2000, when Air Nauru operated an island-hopper service from Australia through to Guam, via Nauru and Kiribati. All connections are now made via Honolulu or Guam.

Original images were 35mm Fujichrome or Ektachrome transparencies. Hi-res. scans are available for licensing.