Along Victoria's Great Ocean Road, frequent traffic signs remind sightseeing motorists to "drive on the left in Australia". The Twelve Apostles, those (once were) twelve rocky pillars off a rugged coast, lure international visitors in numbers once unimaginable. The village of Port Campbell is now the hub of a national park bearing that name. State and local authorities are struggling to cope with the demand for visitor amenities.

Like many locals, we have driven the Great Ocean Road, the coast road from Geelong to Warrnambool, many times over the years. From time to time, coastal formations like London Bridge and the Island Archway erode to the point of collapse. The weather down there can be unpredictable, and the coach tour crowds frustrating, but in the right conditions, the vistas are sublime. Historic lighthouses, shipwreck sites and surf beaches offer additional reasons to visit.