06-DEC-2016
At rest and at work, Bombay, India, 2016
This almost surreal image expresses the raw and strikingly incongruous nature of Bombay. I made it from the window of our slowly moving tour bus. A man on a seemingly overloaded bicycle initially drew my interest – he seems to balance those massive, bulging sacks without a trace of effort. Because our bus was caught in traffic, we were moving as slowly as this bike, allowing me to photograph him for several minutes. Suddenly we drew abreast of a street person at rest. He sits within a broken curb and leans upon a rusting fence as he looks up at our passing tourist bus. Behind him, a child screams from a poster for a Bollywood horror film. A crumbling structure provides an appropriate background for this homeless man and the screaming child, while the man carrying the bulging sacks on the back of his bicycle pays no heed to any of it.
06-DEC-2016
Washerman, The Dhobi Ghat, Bombay, India, 2016
The Dhobi Ghat is the world’s largest outdoor laundry. Built in 1895, this laundry washes thousands of clothes each day. The city of Bombay rents over 800 washing pens, each of them fitted with a “beating stone.” Clothes are soaked, slapped, spun, and even ironed in this this massive laundry, which is spread over 10 acres in the middle of Bombay. I caught this washerman standing in a tub of water adjacent to his washing pen. It is probably the only laundry in the world where the workers labor in their undershorts. Each “dhobi” stands at his washing stone for up to 16 hours.
06-DEC-2016
Out to dry, The Dhobi Ghat, Bombay, India, 2016
I made a number of images using a wideangle lens to embrace the entire operation. However my telephoto lens allowed me to optically move much closer, including less, but saying more. In this shot, only a very small part of the vast laundry is visible. Yet we are able to come close enough to easily spot the men who work in the lower part of this image, and we can still see the hundreds of individual garments hanging on the lines. With so many clothes being washed and dried every day, one wonders how so many customers manage not to wind up with another persons pants in their laundry. Apparently the Ghat keeps excellent track of “who may belong to what” here. Clothes are marked in code, done in permanent ink on small scraps of cotton tied to the garment.
06-DEC-2016
Commuting, Bombay, India, 2016
Bombay, India’s largest city, is the fourth largest in the world. Its population has nearly doubled since my first visit in 1990. Today, more than 22 million people, many of them migrants from rural areas of India, live and work here. The primary mode of travel within the city is by train. Bombay’s local train system is the oldest railway system in Asia. It now has the most outdated electric rail system in the world, still running on power from overhead wires instead of a third rail or fuel. A commuter train can carry up to 5,000 people during peak hours. The total number of people those trains carry each day is larger than the population of some countries. Some passengers may travel up to five hours every day to get to and from work. This photograph of rush hour crowds packing the staircases leading to the city’s Mahalaxmi Station expresses the very essence of Bombay’s archaic transportation system. The station was built 90 years ago, when electric trains first began to serve the city. At that time, just over one million people lived in Bombay. Today, more than ten times that number live here. This image speaks for itself.
06-DEC-2016
A Dabbawala brings the lunch, Bombay, India, 2016
This “Dabbawala,” carrying more than a dozen lunches on his back, is part of a system that has been in place here for more than 125 years, thanks largely to Bombay’s housewives. Simply put, the Dabbawalas carry and deliver lunchboxes (a Dabba) filled with freshly made food from a customer’s home and delivers it to his or her office. There are 5,000 Dabbawalas in Bombay, and they deliver approximately 200,000 lunch boxes a day. In this photograph, I’ve tried to express the pride and tradition behind this world famous delivery system.
06-DEC-2016
Dozens of Dabbas, Bombay, India, 2016
Trust is at the core of Bombay’s amazing lunchbox delivery system. A housewife packs a freshly made lunch in a “Dabba,” a tin or aluminum container. A Dabbawala then picks it up at her house, and after changing hands three, four, or even five times, the lunch arrives on time at a distant office. Each Dabba on this litter is sorted by destination, according to the Dabbawala coding system. Passing from one Dabbawala to another, these lunches will be carried on bikes, heads, hands and arms. They almost always arrive at the right place and at the right time. (A mistake is made on only one out of six million deliveries.) After lunch, the empty Dabbas are picked up by Dabbawalas and delivered back to the homes of their customers that same day.
06-DEC-2016
Dabbawala on the move, Bombay, India, 2016
I photographed a group of Dabbawalas exchanging lunchboxes just across the street from a train station.
(See the two previous captions for additional information on this 125 year old lunchbox delivery system.) In this final image on the Dabbawalas, I photograph one of them from behind. I watched him as he sorted lunchboxes at a transition point in a delivery system that stretches across the entire city. Here he carries a few more “Dabbas” to a pickup spot just down the street. As an older man, he takes each step carefully, preserving his energy on a task he has probably been doing for many years. We never see his face, but we feel both his experience and his effort.
07-DEC-2016
Final Salute, Bombay, India, 2016
Since its establishment in 1873, Bombay’s port has been the gateway to India. This image, which I made at sunset as we sailed out of the harbor, creates a metaphor for that very “gateway” by framing a distant Indian sailboat precisely between a pair of giant cranes. I centered the setting sun just above them, using its halo effect to create a huge curve in the sky that echoes the curve of the sun itself. This image offers a final salute to Bombay, spanning my three visits to India’s largest city over the last quarter of a century.
07-DEC-2016
Off to work, Goa, India, 2016
The expression on the face of the man holding a rusty pickaxe in his hand is very expressive. It speaks of confidence, patience, and anticipation. He was traveling to work on his partner’s motorbike. They have stopped to let our tour bus cross their path, and I made this image through the window of that bus. The handle of the pickaxe is firmly anchored on his leg, yet, quite incongruously, the blade points directly at the neck of his partner. Meanwhile the man driving the motorbike is not at all concerned that there is a pickaxe pointing at his neck. He turns away at this moment, confident that his friend sitting behind him on the back seat knows what he’s doing.
07-DEC-2016
Work break, Public Market, Goa, India, 2016
This marketplace is housed in a large hall, filled dozens of stalls selling produce and household goods. There is a balcony circling the entire length and width of the hall, and that is where I spent my time here as a photographer. Using my long telephoto lens, I could zoom in on both vendors and shoppers as they sold and purchased goods. This young man was neither a vendor nor a shopper. He was part of a family enterprise that sold fruits and vegetables here. I caught him as he took a well-deserved break from his work before heading off to school. He is both sitting and lying upon a pile of bundles in the back of the family’s stall. I watched him from the balcony as he tried to find a comfortable position on the makeshift bedding. He rubs his head with one hand as studies the screen of a phone in his other hand. His backpack rests next to him. Although scene is a busy one, it’s colors pull it together as an expressive image. A stained brown tarp covers half of the white bundles. He wears a blue shirt and lies upon a red garment. A crate sits near his head, while vividly colored Indian fabrics are used to make the bundles at the left hand edge of the frame. His brown pants and shiny black shoe seem perfectly at home in this setting. His body language forms a diagonal focal point that ties the entire image together, and making it one of my favorite photographs from this journey.
08-DEC-2016
The Angel, Basilica of Bom Jesus, Goa, India, 2016
This four-hundred year old church is one the oldest churches in India. It holds the amazingly preserved body of St. Francis Xavier. It is considered to be the best example of baroque architecture in India. While the lavishly decorated altar and tomb of St Francis Xavier are the most celebrated aspects of this church, this gilded pulpit was my own favorite. I moved in below it with a wide angle lens held vertically, making the carved angel on the front of the pulpit appear as if it was a figurehead at the bow of a ship.
08-DEC-2016
Auto-rickshaw, Mangalore, India, 2016
Most cities in India offer auto-rickshaw service. These tiny vehicles are used to travel short distances, run on compressed natural gas, and provide cheap and efficient transportation. In this image, an auto-rickshaw driver is waiting for a customer. He seems as curious about me as I was about his vehicle.