Portugal joined the ranks of the civilised world a few weeks ago when it banned smoking inside enclosed public spaces. The incredible thing, though, is that people are abiding by the law. I wouldn't believe it myself if I hadn't seen it with my own eyes. Last night I was in a neighbourhood restaurante, and no-one was smoking. Today I have been in three cafes and no-one has been smoking. The same up at the university... where once I had to run a gauntlet of tobacco fumes to get to my office, now all I smell is the disinfectant the cleaners use on the floors. Brilliant.