We found a tourist office in a street near our casa in Cienfuegos, and a lovely lady organised for us a tour of the Valle de los Ingenios – where the sugar industry once flourished using slave labour. She arranged for a car ("Classic or modern?" – we chose modern) with a driver and English-speaking guide. She implied that the guide would be rather special and we were not disappointed. A history professor, I think, and he kept our ears, eyes and brains busy for the whole trip. On the way back to Cienfuegos, we stopped at a workshop where pottery is made and where a 1914 T-model Ford lives.