A Nok Air plane from Chiang Mai and just a forty minute flight NW with superb views of mountains and valleys before touching down at a surprisingly big, modern airport of Mae Hong Son.

"Set deep in a mountain valley, Mae Hong Son is often swathed in mist ... There is a strong Burmese flavour to the town's temples and festivals and much of the population is made up various hill tribes - Karen, Lisu, Hmong and Lawa....." guide

A tuk-tuk into the town and to the lake where we find a very pleasant guest-house. Town so quiet. Temple beside the lake and views of surrounding mountains, dark olive and distant mauve. Other temple spires on top of hill. Just a few motor bikes, most businesses closed, a few sleepy dogs wearing t-shirts (because it is ‘cool’ and winter), peaceful, empty streets. However it all comes alive in the evening with twinkling lights, pop-up market stalls and food vendors and a bustle of activity, the temple lit and reflected prettily across the lake.

Early next morning (not quite dawn as we had aimed for) we climb the many steps and winding pathway to the temple on the hill. The atmosphere is magic – misty, cool and quiet at the temple. Very beautiful. A few devotees and a couple of monks, one old monk busily burning sugar cane filled with sticky rice and another looking at a computer. We make ourselves a coffee for a donation and take many photos in the morning light and as it increases. Hens, chicks and roosters strut and peck and dogs wake. We are inspired to follow path and sign to the coffee shop offering ‘romantic view’ which IS a stunning view of the morning mist rising over the distant mountains and valley below. Good coffee.

There is not much more to Mae Hong Son. The town is unremarkable but a hub for the local population, the Morning Market, the usual hive of produce stalls, dry goods...

See my blog.