Not cheap, and more a place for a special occasion. But if you have the means... don't dare deprive yourself.

Chris' is a combined restaurant and accommodation complex way up a hilly road from Skenes Creek, just east of Apollo Bay.. The restaurant is on two levels with panoramic windows which look over bushland and, of course, the lights of Apollo Bay beyond.

So yes, the view is great. But the food. Oh, the food.

I had a beef ragu which transcended anything I've ever tasted (of that kind) before. Every flavour was infused into every ingredient. It was something to be savoured, slowly, and its eventual completion was one of life's regrets tempered only by a determination to get back here some day.

I had the Jaffa mousse for dessert which was also exceptional though my partner described hers in even more glowing terms.

There have been a few times since being there that I've pondered how long it would take to get back here.