I learned to respect the ocean here, getting stuck in a
rip-tide that could have drowned me 15 feet from shore.

I learned how to surf at this beach break, standing on a
stick for the first time-I walked on the water.

I learned to talk to the animals here. One flat day, paddling
around hoping for waves, I was engaged by the friendly, chirpy
chatter of a sea otter.

I've enjoyed countless sunsets here and shared the sound of
crashing waves with a friend on the other side of the country
through a cell phone.

Seeing this little grom having the time of his life reminded me of all of those 'firsts'.