After a day sweating through the swamp forests of Kwatu Lodge, where we had watched a glittering Hooded Pitta bounding along the forest floor; a luminous Red-bellied Pitta calling from a rainforest tree; and even watched a Blue Jewel-Babbler flying agitatedly from one side of the trail to another; we returned to Kiunga. The day before we had also enjoyed some quality PNG birds like hulking Southern Crowned Pigeons perched by the Elevala River; the "blood-and-snow" King Bird-of-Paradise dancing his way up and down a rainforest liana; opened with a male Twelve-wired Bird-of-Paradise working his chosen pole alongside the Fly River; and watched in amazement as on after another gl;orious kingfisher "paraded" in front of us: from the Common Paradise-Kingfisher that filled the scope, to the ultra shy Hook-billed Kingfisher that just sat there for as long as we wished, to the shy Little Paradise-Kingfisher that reminded us that truly herculean efforts are sometimes required to see these special birds. What a couple of days on the Fly River, one of the last great wildernesses on Earth.