We awoke early and were packed, out the door and in the center of Dubrovnik having coffee before 9 am. Breakfast of cheese, jam, honey and several types of delicious bread on the main street was idyllic. There were no cruise ships in the harbor and it was too early for tourist buses. In the bookstore next to the café we bought two books about the Serbian conflict to attempt to understand the religious aspect, Eastern Orthodox, Roman Catholic, Muslim and Jewish mixed with the political aspect of Croatian, Bosnian, and Serbian-Montenegrin nationalism. Sadly, I know so little and it requires so much research to even scratch the surface of the causes - much less how it played out.

Since the day was again beautiful with blue skies and warm temperatures, the drive north along the coast was picturesque. Ann drove so I could take in the scenery this time. We traveled north from Dubrovnik to Split the opposite of three days ago. We arrived in Split at the port, around noon, parked the car at the ferry terminal and went to Diocletian’s Palace. Built in the 300s (No, not the 1300s), by the Roman Emperor, Diocletian, much still remains of the 8 square block residence in the center of town facing the main harbor. It is the heart of the old town now as a city was built within the walls after the palace became derelict in the 700s. Emigrants from the Turk wars during that time built a city upon the foundations of the old abandoned palace.

Interesting.

We boarded the ferry at 8 pm. Now let me back track and recap the ferry adventure both ways. We found out there is an Italian way to do things and a Croatian way. It may come as a surprise there is no contest in efficiency. Italy loses hands down. Getting on the ferry (boarding) and getting off (disembarking) on Italian soil took over three hours. The same procedures on Croatian soil took 30 minutes. Most mysteriously it was the same crew all four times on this round trip. I just don’t get it.

We ate dinner at a sidewalk restaurant in front of the palace overlooking the harbor rather than eating dinner on the ferry. I like Croatia. They don’t look funny at you if you need to eat at 6 pm rather than the normal Italian 8 pm as we did before boarding. The meal was excellent. We had a shared starter of spaghetti with fresh shrimp; I then had veal Cordon Bleu and a beet salad. Ann had Filet Mignon with mushrooms with cold red pepper garnish puree. Now FRESH shrimp are magnificent. Not the flash frozen Thai shrimp but “pull out of the water and eat the next day” shrimp. They have such a different sweet flavor and texture here.

Off to bed on the upper bunk again somewhat worried about Ann since the winds have kicked up greatly this evening and this does not bode well for the crossing.

Lesson for Day 42: If you take an Italian-Croatian ferry it is best to never use the Italian side!