April 2nd: With the arrival of the next day's El Chepe and the help of Richard Grant, an Englishman with far better Spanish skills, I was a passenger in a small van eventually packed with 15 people. At first we crossed the high altitude mesas, but then came to the Urique canyon.

As I think back to my emotions on seeing this canyon, I am left without adequate words. I could see the town and river of same names over a mile down there as measured vertically. We got back into the van and descended, hanging onto the cliff by miracles and driver skill. Everything in Urique comes down or came down this road - even the gasoline!

After the "hotel" room of the last night, the hotel is Urique was wonderful - and only $10.

Richard knew a lot about the area, and he was a great companion. We sampled the beers at several locations, and I can report there was no difference in taste!

The next morning I caught the van back up to Bahuichivo.

BTW, although the horizontal difference between the two towns is only sixteen miles, it's a two hour trip. You do the switchback math.