27-DEC-2007
Pre Sheik of the Burning Sands (WI 4-)
Our warmup for the trip and, due to the lack of cold weather in Hamilton one of
Laura and my first ice climbs of the season, turned out to be the hardest grade
we climbed the whole trip! We mistook this for another route, which was easier
but VERY thin at the time. Oh well!
I was eager to try the new tools I made (background) and get climbing, so I racked
up and started. It felt a bit stout for the grade that I thought it was, but it
was early in the season so I shrugged it off!
27-DEC-2007
Up Sheik (by Laura)
Laura followed the pitch to the belay tree testing her new tools
and finishing her first ice climb of the year! She took this while
rapping the route.
We walked down the horrendously snow laden slope back to the car
and continued looking for a place to stay, which landed us at the
Ark Hotel. Jim and Gabby, the owners, were extremely accomodating and
friendly; a trend that seems to occor frequently in Keene Valley!
Chapel Pond Slab
The next morning we woke to a nice breakfast provided by Jim.
These people are honestly so nice! It's like Keene Valley attracts
goodness!
Anyhow, we didn't know what we should get on, but the book said that
Chapel Pond Slab was long and relatively moderate, so we parked there
and headed for the base of the route.
Here is Laura at the base. 700 feet above is the end of the last pitch
with thin or none existent ice over snow and some plump ice up top.
I passed a miniscule belay tree that was supposed to be the end of pitch 1
and Laura simulclimbed below me until I found a stout tree to make a belay.
28-DEC-2007
P1 CPS
Here I'm moving up the first pitch! Thin but not steep!
Laura finishing P1
Here is Laura moving towards the tree belay at the end of a long
pitch 1.
28-DEC-2007
P2 on Chapel Pond Slabs
I set off again on the second pitch. The ice was starting to thicken up and
take some gear, which was nice. This route is well regarded in the book for
good reason. A look over your shoulder exposes you to a great view of the mountains!
Laura climbing
I just about ran out of rope after a few more vertical steps, and
found a logical spot to make a belay. A few screws later and Laura
was sinking picks into ice instead of rock (both her and my picks
were blunt).
Close to the Belay
She arrived at the belay smiling but getting tired, as was I!
We tend to not put too much emphasis on doing tonnes of stuff
when we get away climbing, but put weight on having a tonne of
fun! So, we ended up getting on this climb at about 11 o clock.
After Laura arrived I sorted the rack out and started towars the crux
of the route. About 15 feet of steepish ice led to 60 feet of mushy new ice
and snow where a belay could be made to end pitch 3.
P3 CPS
I couldn't really see or hear Laura until she came over the lip
seen here. This picture doesn't really do justice to the exposure.
It's not the gnawing kind of exposure you get on vertical routes but
a vastness that kind of sucks you away. It's really beautiful.
P4 CPS - snow slog
The last pitch of the route would be fun to ski if it was
a few thousand feet longer. A bit of ice (I don't remember
how much) led to a nice snow slope that apparently likes to
avalanche on occasion. It was a gearless pitch and was over
quickly but ended a great route!
A comfy belay!
Laura followed quickly as I sat comfortably on my pack
attached to a 6 inch cedar.
Chapel pond summit
Here we are at the top but not finished with the roped climbing yet.
The light was fading and there was still a half rope length of snow to
traverse over a long drop and a long descent.
