It was a very moving experience to visit it in 2002 when the Russians had sent a team of restorers etc to redo all the gilt work on the spires to mark the 125th. anniversary of the battle. My wife who is Bulgarian was in tears when we came out of the crypt where the bodies of the soldiers were buried under the marble slabs on the floor. It is probably impossible to imagine the scene of the battle and the hardships that must have been experienced or the savagery of it.