It is rainy and cold there in the winter; balmy and green, with lots of flowers, in the spring; and hot and dry in the summer. Autumn is kindof a combination of all of them--what I remember from then is not the weather, so much as the nose-wrinkling smells from heaps of fermenting grapeskins and the ever-increasing, industrial clamor of the bustling harvest, subsiding, after that much-overrated hullaballoo, to the subtle aroma of puffballs in the damp and quietly greening fields.