And on the 11th day...it's a 5am start, it's still dark, and it is another 600m ascent to the pass. The early start is compulsory - it's safer - but the reasoning goes over my head. By chance it is a full moon but any romantic ideas are soon quashed - the early start makes me grumpy and all I can think is, "will someone turn that bloody moon off, it's blinding me". But as we approach the Thorong La there is a magical moment when the sun rises behind us throwing its first rays onto the pass while the full moon still hangs overhead.