Macaroni penguins, we were told, live in places difficult for us to get to. Yes. The landing was easy enough, then there was a steep climb through and over tussac, with dire environmental consequences if we went over instead of through. Or it might have been the other way round, but avoidance of injury and fur seals became the main consideration in the climb. Then there was a sort of traverse to where we got a distant view of the colony. Our bird expert led the more intrepid further up the hill hoping for a better view, while the more cautious stayed for a while, some complaining, some doing their best with long lenses, before turning back. I was at the tail end of those who turned back, when a few macaroni penguins emerged from the tussac almost at my feet. So I think I got the best pictures. Those who followed our bird expert up the hill came back worn out and with no good pictures of macaronis.