After camping at Larchwood last night, we lurch awake this morn and head into the unincorporated community of Skookumchuk, where there is a gas sation, restaurant, and campground. We have some excellent bacon and eggs at the restaurant, which is run by a hungover biker mama who is the cook, waitress, dishwasher, you name it. At the campground next door, we pay the newly obligatory daily licencing fee to fish "Classified Waters" in BC, which includes mighty Skookumchuk Creek. These fees are a real pain in the ass... no more spontaneous bursts of travel for fly fishing on another river. If the stream you originally headed to doesn't work out for one reason or another, you can't just go somewhere else, unless a shop that sells licences is on the way...