Sarajevo is a beautiful little city, set at the base of a deep valley and dotted with Catholic churches, Orthodox churches, synagogues and mosques. The scars of the brutal siege that lasted from 1992 to 1995 are still everywhere: bullet holes and mortar shell scars all over streets, apartments and office buildings. Much of the old quarter, the historical Muslim heart of the city, has been patched up however. I met several young men who had taken up rifles and defended the city while it was under siege.