Hoa Lu, located about 15km from Tam Coc, is the ancient capital of Vietnam during the Dinh (968-80AD) and early Le (980-1009) dynasties. Most of the capital has been destroyed, and the main structures remaining in the area today are two temples. The first, Dinh Tien Hoang, was restored in the 17th century and is dedicated to the Dinh dynasty. The second temple, Le Dai Hanh (or Duong Van Nga), commemorates the rules of the early Le dynasty. We visited both the temples, but first, we met and were enthralled by these two Vietnamese farmers and their water buffaloes...