March 8th 2005, one of the biggest swells of the year hit the north shore, and there was an energy in the air, a buzz. Walking around by the ocean, you could hear the crack of the mighty waves, like buildings collapsing.
I had torn my knee playing soccer, and was on crutches. Well, I wanted to go to the point closest to the waves, but to get there I'd have to climb out on a bunch of slippery rocks. Much to the chagrin of my knee, that's exactly what I did. Not only that, but the soles of my cheap dress shoes had fallen off, so my right foot was barefoot, and my left foot just had a piece of leather around it. Pure comedy.
I wish I could make you feel like you were out there with me, because it's very exciting. Watching a wave that big form, and looking right into the heart of it, its like looking down a dragon's throat.
The zoom on my camera is very low, so I look far away. But to get these photos, I had to run out to the edge of these rocks, snap a photo of the wave before it got to me, and run back and hold on to a rock, so I wouldn't get sucked into the ocean. See the pictures with all the water splashing? That's what 15 feet in front of me looks like, when the LEFT-OVERS of the wave, hit the rock shelf I'm sitting on.