Even since before I started surfing, I've always deeply enjoyed big wave watching. When I was a kid, about once a year, the surf would get really big, and these big waves would roll in, smashing against the pier until they had to shut it down. I'd go out there and watch the big waves, mesmerized. I still remember the time, I was on the pier watching, my friend kept saying, "lets go, lets go!", eventually he just left, and I stayed till the sun went down.

I still feel the same way, and I've been lucky enough to spend 3 days watching 25 foot Waimea. Really beautiful.