A 175-foot high gateway -- the largest in Asia -- dominates a seven-mile long wall that encloses the Jami Masid, the great open mosque of Fatehpur Sikri, the capital of the Mughal Empire from 1571 to 1585. The city suffered a water shortage and was abandoned. To give this vista its sense of scale, I waited for people to move into the plaza. It took some time – no shoes are allowed here, and the stones of the ancient courtyard were scorched by the afternoon sun. Eventually two people, one of them with shoes in hand, made the trek through the pigeons across the hot stones. Their abstracted figures make the huge gate seem even larger.