The night of Santo Antonio in Lisbon is a 'loucura'. The city grinds to a halt to make way for the Marchas Populares - when several bairros (neighbourhoods) compete against other in their interpretation of a traditional theme through song, dance and decoration, and it's taken very seriously by the participants - and the 'sardinhada'. People buy and sniff 'manjericos' (by rubbing their hands on the leaves and smelling their palms - and absolutely not by putting their noses into the plant). The older parts of the city - the Alfama, Castelo and Mouraria - fill up with tens of thousands of people eating grilled sardines and chourico, and drinking lots of beer. It's all great fun, and I make a point of being here every year to enjoy it. I used to live in Graça, so I always support them. Last year, if my memory serves me well, Marvila won the Marchas. I think Graça did quite well... or maybe not.