The countryside on Gunung Lawu’s slopes is delightful. Rolling hills, valleys and plateaus, coffee groves and vegetable plots give way to tea plantations at about 1,000m. At 1,400m and some fifteen kilometres from Candi Sukuh lies Candi Cetho which sits at the top of a steeply sloping Hindu village of the same name. It dates from the same period as Sukuh, but could not be more different. You would think you had been transported several hundred kilometres to Bali, with whose temples Cetho shares many similarities. It is an exquisitely attractive place, even if little visited – the guest book at the ticket office showed just fourteen foreign visitors in the past seventeen days.