After some searching, we found the Falcon Souq, which was a unique kind of place to visit. There were many stores selling falcons, but not particularly picturesque – usually rows of “steps” with falcons with hoods on their heads, waiting for somebody to buy them. I understand the hoods keep them calm, but still couldn’t help but feeling sorry for the birds. Occasionally we’d come across one without a hood, apparently a well-behaved bird. We did see a few men shopping for a falcon, and many with birds on their arms heading for the falcon hospital on the premises.

One of many falcons who sit on steps, hooded, and waiting for somebody to buy them. I’m not defending these practices, but falconry is a huge part of the culture in this region, and although the birds aren’t free, from what I have seen, they are treated very well, like members of the family – I have observed the obvious pride and affection these men feel for their birds. I would say that the falcon hospitals here probably have more regular patients than people hospitals – they have frequent checkups and need to be treated if even one feather is broken because it affects their flight. One blog I read said that this was the only place in the world where, if flying on a regional airline, you could easily find yourself sitting next to a falcon on an airplane – their owners are allowed to buy seats for them, and they definitely don’t sit in cages.

In any case, the captive and hooded birds indeed present a sad picture, but it is the way things are here.