We found the mall with no problem, but then had to ask for directions for the restaurant once we got inside. Times Dynasty is located up the stairs, across a bridge, up some more steps, then through a plain, unmarked door. How does that American song go again? "Over the river and through the woods, to the dim sum parlor we go ..."

It was pleasantly spacious and well-lit, as you can see in the photo. We marked off our selections on a chit instead of the more traditional way of choosing straight off a rolling dim sum cart. We had many dim sum which included white tripe, cuttlefish, beef meatballs, chicken feet, eggplant stuffed with shrimp, beef and shrimp cheung fun, tofu pudding, and an interesting "fried soft turnip cake with chestnut paste." Unless you have been apprised of the presence of chestnut, you would be inclined to pronounce it as some kind of Oriental mystery meat.

The two outstanding dim sum were the hor yeep fan (sticky rice in lotus leaf -- the size, taste and stickiness were just right) and the siu mai (very juicy and slightly denser than the excellent siu mai at Dragon Dynasty). The meen fah guy ("cotton" chicken -- steamed with fish stomach) was not bad either, almost as smooth and delectable as the one at Dragon Dynasty. The waiter kindly divulged some of the kitchen's secrets: You need a young, preferably fresh chicken. You marinate it in oil, Chinese wine (mui jow), baking soda, cornstarch, MSG, and cut-up Chinese mushrooms. You need to baste it while it's steaming. Not all that much work, but not everyone can get the perfect balance of flavor.

The waiter also kindly gave us directions to nearby competitors when we showed him the sheet of restaurants our friend Loretta recommended. It goes to show that there are so many good restaurants around in Toronto, there's enough business to go around!

Times Dynasty, Times Square Mall, 2nd floor, northwest corner of Highway 7 and Leslie, Richmond Hill, Ontario