There is a 2-month waiting list even though it only opened tonight. The chef is Thomas Keller, widely regarded as the best chef in America. He owns the famous French Laundry restaurant in Napa Valley, California. There is also a very long waiting list to dine there.

Opening night security was high. There was a guard stationed at the base of the escalator, which was cordoned off to discourage walk-ins and tourists. Since we did not have a reservation, we qualified as walk-ins, but the guard kindly allowed us to go upstairs anyway. Unfortunately, there were no last-minute cancellations. We were happy just to have seen the new space and make our reservations for April.

Per Se, 10 Columbus Circle, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10019 (212) 823-9335