First fresh Hachiya persimmons are peeled, then hung from strings and left in a sunny, airy spot to dry. For the first week of their transformation, they’re left alone. Once they form a skin, they are treated to frequent gentle massages. Some people massage their persimmons every few days; others, including the local orchard where I took this photo, do this daily. This special treatment goes on for at least a month.

Those massages develop the structure of the fruit and drive off moisture while redistributing sugars to the exterior. The flesh becomes tender and chewy, as supple as any gummy candy with a deep, caramelized sweetness that lingers on your tongue. You know the persimmons are nearly ready when the fructose in the fruit forms a concentrated white dusting on the surface.

Since they sell for up to $40 a pound, it would be a waste to cook with them. They are considered to be a healthy snack by those who have acquired the taste.