27-MAR-2007
A week in rural France
Our house in France was part of an old stone farmhouse, surrounded by similar stone barns and outhouses, yards and hedges, vegetable gardens and fields.
There was an ancient orchard of gnarled apple trees among which grazed a sheep and her lamb and a dear old grey donkey. There were also hens, free ranging!!, three farm kittens and a painted gypsy caravan…..just for atmosphere, I suspect.
27-MAR-2007
Our cottage, "Les Mezerais"
The farm “Les Mezerais”, had been bought by an English couple, as often is the case. Two thirds of the house was their own and the end third was the part for letting.
27-MAR-2007
Philip talks to one of the cats
The couple, Bernie and Caroline, were away in The Canary Islands soaking up sun (what a life) so we never met them. Sharon, another English woman had bought the farmhouse next door … a grand old two storey stone house and accompanying large stone barn where she kept her bike and did her laundry. She moved permanently to France with her teenage son, Lloyd, who loved riding his small motor scooter around the property, and to school in a nearby town.
27-MAR-2007
Gypsy wagon, at our farm
The farm, of two houses and many extremely old stone outbuildings, was in pretty countryside, with daffodils and blossom at that time abounding, pots of bulbs at the doors, a river just a pleasant walk away and the sun shining. The sun continued to shine throughout the week of our stay.
31-MAR-2007
Evening light over our farm
Our part of the farm had living, kitchen and bathroom downstairs, including an open fire which we lit each night, and two attic bedrooms up a winding staircase. All decorated in French farmhouse style, and so idyllic I could have stayed for almost ever.
30-MAR-2007
Where?
We were part of a small village, Brece, on the border of Normandy and Brittany and seemed to be in one or the other most of the time. Every small village or town in that part of France ( or everywhere?) clusters around the church, usually old and most imposing. Tall grey spires were seen from the distance. Our church in Brece, “Eglise Notre Dame”, 15th C, was typical. Around it spread the cobbled streets, plain stone houses with faded shutters on windows with Breton lace curtains, some completely shuttered up (just for the winter), belonging to absent owners. There was a “Boulangerie and Patisserie”, usually always a “Coiffure” and not much more. It was very austere, except for the spring bulbs and blossom. There was always a town square, sometimes a war memorial, in plain gravelled open spaces. Nearby towns, depending on size, had more shops ….”Charcuterie”, “Boucherie” and “La Poste”.
30-MAR-2007
Normandy pastorale
The countryside was lush, with brilliantly green fields (bocage), hedges (borage), stone farms and barns, bare trees in bud, rich brown ploughed fields and plump black and white or pale brown storybook cows. Old stone crucifixes appear regularly at various points along the roads. We would count these as we passed. Wild primroses, daisies and buttercups dotted the steep banks along the roads and, here and there, a pink or white blossom tree. NO vineyards in these areas, just apple orchards which produce the local “cidre” and the fortified apple brandy “calvados’ for which the area is renowned.
“Cows grazing in fields and apple trees growing in neat rows: these are what first strike the visitors to Normandy. The cream is made into the cheeses and rich sauces that typify the local cuisine, while the apples are used for the alcoholic drink calvados for a region whose climate is unfriendly to the vine.” - guidebook
02-APR-2007
The obligatory baguette
In villages and small towns all older men wore berets of one form or another and walking sticks were common. Everyone over the age of 60 seemed to have one !!
Men and women carried shopping baskets and almost all seemed to carry the inevitable breadstick. We bought ours each day and gorged on fine cheeses and terrines !!
27-MAR-2007
Castle wall, Fougeres
The superb “chateaux” and lakes, moats and town squares of the larger towns were worth exploring. Many cities had remnants of castle walls and the medieval houses within lined narrow, cobbled streets.
28-MAR-2007
Cafe sign, Fougeres
The towns close from 12 noon until 2:00 pm except for the restaurants which offer the “plat du jour” on chalkboards outside….so tempting and often the best choice anyway. Everyone eats at that time, tables of workers, couples or singles. Wine and beer are served.
27-MAR-2007
Our lunch Creperie, Fougeres
A typical “plat du jour” of two courses was about 8 to 12 euros.
eg “salade de la maison”, “terrines chaudes”, “grilles”, :entrecotes”, “sausissons”, haricots vertes’ and “pommes de terre” various ways…… In Brittany, crepes and “gallettes” (buckwheat crepes with savoury filling) are a local dish and even small stalls in markets offer them ready to eat . The most delectable “tartes pommes” are offered at “les patisseries” or on the “menu du jour” at the local restaurants.
27-MAR-2007
Breton lace curtain
“ ...so while Breton lace still curtains the farmhouse window, a low slung Citroen with Parisian plates lurks in the cart barn: the bakers oven still juts out from the side of the boulangerie but, warmed by central heating instead of charcoal, it houses a tasteful library: the pantiled outshut that was once open to the west winds and festooned with fishing nets is now glassed in and log-jammed with potted begonias and sunny geraniums.” -…guidebook
01-APR-2007
Street in Laval
Many of the houses In Normandy are half-timbered and very old. The cobbled streets are narrow and houses often overhang like The Shambles in York and parts of Ludlow and Shrewsbury in Shropshire.
01-APR-2007
Easter cake in Patisserie, Laval
29-MAR-2007
City wall, St Malo
We found the big cities of St Malo and Mont St Michel, both mist enshrouded, interesting but very crowded. Most things were higher priced and it was not yet the popular summer season. Streets, squares and stylish shops were a delight to explore.
29-MAR-2007
Boat maintenance, St Malo
29-MAR-2007
Couple,St Malo
I chased around the city searching for a “salons/toilettages pour les chiens”..I had promised to find a smart collar for the French Poodle of a neighbour back home. He had been attending to my garden.
28-MAR-2007
Market shoppers, St Hilaire
02-APR-2007
Pollarded trees, Ambriere
28-MAR-2007
Street vendor with rabbits for sale, St Hilaire
02-APR-2007
Le Gros Horloge, Rouen
Travel is never without some hassles. One kitten got into our house and scoffed terrine and cheese (what a find). We became completely lost trying to find our way out of Rouen, a huge city with an old and fascinating town centre.
31-MAR-2007
Street, Domfront
We witnessed a drama at the Paris/Beauvais Airport while awaiting our flight back to Scotland.
An unattended bag sat alone in the middle of the check-in area and, after an urgent announcement for "the owner to collect it IMMEDIATELY", there was shouting from uniformed guards to “STAND BACK EVERYONE” and two more police arrived on the scene.
The poor bag was approached with caution and the contents tipped out gingerly. It seemed quite an innocent bag and eventually was taken into custody.
My imagined scenario was that some poor passenger had put it down and thought it had gone on the conveyer belt and walked away, absent mindedly, oblivious to the commotion it had caused.
29-MAR-2007
Happy travellers in mirror, Mayenne, taken by Philip