Just past dawn, I put the new stick in the water for the first time.
Two things go through your mind when you come upon a beach
and no one else is in the water. First, elation. Rare thing
to have every inch of swell to yourself. Second, realization.
There has to be a reason no one else is in the water. Wild,
unpredictable waves. Cold, early morning water. Sharp winds.
Unpenetrable beach break.

I could go on.