Nothing makes the stress of the day completely
disappear like a couple of head high sets. Asilomar
State Beach is, at certain times of the year,
sketchy, unpredictable and mean. At other times of
the year, it's a lot of fun. There's a harsh beach
break and hoover of a riptide to get by, but then
there is a swift kick in the ass that, no matter
how hard you paddle, you won't escape. All you can
do is hang on to the rails, swing up to a low crouch
and ride it all the way back to the parking lot.

I was jess reminded yesterday how lucky I am to live here. I'd have to say I agree. Not many
people can decide to surf for half an hour at the end of the day just to blow off steam.