I've surfed the west side of Santa Cruz for two years. Cowell's Beach, one of the best longboarding spots anywhere, has been my favorite break. Until today.

I may have defected. Why? Three words.

Best. Day. Ever.

I thought I had a wave. Average wave. Nothing special. I started paddling. I felt it start to pull me and then...nothing. Another surfer was paddling right at me, breaking one of the cardinal rules.
Stuff like that happens.

"Sorry, dude"

"No thing, bro. No...whoa"

Time to paddle again. Big one. Right behind me. I can feel my heart pounding in my chest. A little excitement. A touch of fear...but I keep paddling and then, well, magic. This is going to be good.
I feel the swell start to lift me. Two more hard strokes. Keep the bottom of the board planing as it rides straight down the face of the wave. Time to get up. Now or never.

Now or...smack.
I don't know what happened, but I am still in front of that wave.
Grab the rails again. Don't give up. Push. Pop. On my feet.
Holy...what the...this thing is fast and getting faster.

"Yes!"

There is nothing like that feeling. Nothing.

Oh. And I saw the shark. Ok, not really....but I did see a dorsal fin pass through. Fortunately it was a dolphin. You know the waves are good when the dolphins come out to play.

________

Pictured above is the parking lot for 'The Hook'. You park there
and hoof it a few blocks to get to 38s. All loaded and ready for the
drive home is the Mighty Aipa. 10' long and screaming yellow. My friend
Chris rides it. Below, socked away, is my 9'2" South Point.