By regulation, each walking safari in the South Luangwa must be accompanied by a park ranger. The park rangers, again by regulation, are natives. Isiah was our protector during our walking safaris at Kuyenda Camp. Phil was usually the first to spot game, and Ellen was first now and then. Though he never said much, watching Gabriel it seemed clear that he knew where the game was well before anyone.

Most park rangers are "converted" poachers. This is a very good thing for the African national parks, for the African people, for the game, and for the preservation of African wildlife.