March 2026: They said it couldn't - shouldn't - be attempted now, with much of the Middle East in uproar, expats being evacuated and flight routes changing by the day. Even in normal times Socotra is accessible only by once-weekly flights departing Jeddah, Saudi Arabia. Luckily, I took the punt and got myself safely there - and back.

Since ancient times Socotra has been renowned for its healing and aromatic resins, for the gums exuded by its endemic plants; for the world’s best aloe, amber, musk and pearls.

Modern pundits marvel at Socotra's exceptionally rich and distinct flora and fauna. It is home to 825 plant species of which 308 (37%) are endemic: species are found nowhere else on Earth.

Only by booking with an accredited local tour company do would-be tourists obtain a Yemeni visa for Socotra. I chose Welcome to Socotra and was not disappointed. We were an unusually small group, no doubt due to the Middle East political situation, but got on all the better for that. Our accommodation was in individual tents, pitched each night by the support team.