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Cut these strips with the keep piece off the lumber. Project the cutline inch past the edge (to account for the router bit's width). When using a router, cut from delegated right as you face the edge (and the tool is upright), to keep the bit from pulling. Adhere the side pieces Utilizing a chip brush, apply contact cement to the back of the laminate strips for the counter's short sides and onto the substrate sides.

Allow the contact cement on both parts to dry to the touch. Take a strip and position it over the side without letting it touch, ensuring it's uniformly aligned all around. Working from one end to the other, stick the laminate to the substrate, smoothing it as you go.

Touch up irregular edges Using the router switched on its side, cut off the overhanging edges of laminate, running the bit counterclockwise around the edges. Retouch irregular edges with a file or sander, keeping it flat on top of the particleboard and pushing far from the laminate. With the sides done, glue and trim the front edge.

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Keep the bit without adhesive by occasionally disconnecting the router and soaking the bit in water. Cover laminate back and substrate with contact cement Turn the leading laminate sheet facedown. Pour contact cement onto the back and, utilizing a paint roller, spread the adhesive over the whole sheet. Roll any excess onto the substrate.

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Enable the contact cement to dry to the touch on both parts. Laminate the top Lay wood scraps or dowels across the substrate every 12 inches or so. Turn the laminate so that it is adhesive-side down, and rest the sheet on top of the scraps without enabling it to touch the substrate.

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Starting in the middle, remove a scrap and press the laminate down. Working out from the center, continue removing scraps and pushing the sheet into location, till the entire sheet is adhered. Related Source Here over the counter with the J-roller, using company strokes. Utilizing the trim router, cut off the excess around the boundary.