A polyester material is utilized because it will stretch with the finishings. (Fiberglas fabric is not recommended.) Fabric is generally cut to extend 3 inches beyond the fixed location in all directions. The finish is applied to the roofing system surface area and the material is immediately pressed into the damp surface area.

Proper Surface Preparation Is Essential Before Applying Roof

If your roof has stucco parapets, examine them for fractures along the sides and top. These locations frequently permit water to go into the wall and can trigger blisters and wrinkles in the roofing surface area. Repair work with Elastek 103 Crack & Joint Sealant. If you do not have parapets, examine the metal drip edge for a tight seal with the roofing system membrane.

Elastomeric & Emulsion Roofing

Quick Setting Elastomeric Roof Coating

Apply finishing when the roofing is dry and the sealant has set. You will be utilizing a 9-inch heavy-duty frame, -inch paint roller for spreading out finish on roof or 1-1/4-inch roller for dipping in pail, and a 5to-6-foot extension pole. Use a 3/4-inch roller with basecoats and emulsions. Map out your roofing and make each pail fill that location.

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An inexpensive 3-inch or 4-inch brush ought to be utilized to reach locations not possible with a roller. Utilize a stiff paintbrush for using 103 Crack & Joint Sealant. Topcoat needs to constantly be applied in an extremely thick coat, to attain a rate of 100 sq. ft. per gallon, and a dry finish thickness of 10 mils.

Coatings are applied with a minimum of working the product for an optimum density. Work right from the pail, dipping the roller or soak roofing system and spread. Provide scupper and ponding locations several extra coats for added protection. Allow each coat to dry before recoating. In cool weather, one coat a day is the optimum; two might be possible in the summer season.

How To Apply Elastomeric Paint (With Pictures)

ft. per gallon, or a minimum of 20 mils dry covering. If 2 complete topcoats are not applied, constantly apply 2 thick coats to problem areas such as scuppers, drain areas, ponding areas, joints, and repaired locations. Prevent using Elastek Solar Magic or The Guard on ponding roofing systems. Tidy skin and tools without delay with water.

These are the wires linking the roofing venting fan. I clipped them simply above the blue splice joints. Roof vent removed and tidied up. After clipping the wire and eliminating the vent, I tidied up any remaining goop and got my first good take a look at the roofing frame. It's metal! 1 1/2 inches thick.

Some Recreational Vehicle roofing systems are framed with wood, others have metal framing. I had no idea what was in my camper till this point. Not too pleased about the quantity of rust on it, but ideally it is still structurally sound! I scraped off some rust and made a huge mess inside the bathroom.

Oops. Maybe I must have put a tarpaulin down initially. My last goal of the day was to get the fridge vent cover off. I discovered Recreational Vehicle sealant blobs at four points on the cover so presumed there must be screws under them. I pried them up and found Phillips screw heads.

Exposing the screws in the refrigerator vent cap. Removing old RV roofing finish on top of fridge vent cap I likewise saw that there was a coat of RV roofing finishing over the vent cap. These coatings are painted on with a brush so plainly whoever did this finishing just blobbed in on top of everything.

Moved Here:

Taking off the cover of the refrigerator roofing vent. When the cap is off it's more of the same. Cutting away more rubber and scraping off RV roof sealant and old caulk. Get comfortable since this sucker has 32 screws in it! Ugh. Scraping lap sealant and caulk from screw heads.

Adhesion Is Important When Applying An Elastomeric Roof

Some screws will be too rusted and need pliers to remove. Prying off the refrigerator roofing vent after all screws are removed. (and the tools used.) Nearly every screw was in good enough condition to get rid of with a socket chauffeur, however a couple were too rusty and required to be twisted out with vice grip pliers.

I peeled off the remaining rubber roofing system from under the flange and then scraped off the old putty below. I'll clean it better if and when I choose to reuse it. Looks like it's in good shape so I probably will. Removing the old putty from the flange of the refrigerator roofing system vent.

Kool Seal 10 Year Elastomeric Roof Coating

I scraped the framing inside the opening and discovered that the framing around the refrigerator vent is made of wood (unlike the metal frame around the roofing system vent.) Then I covered it up with a scrap of wood so I would not drop any junk into the fins on the back of the fridge! Here's a peek inside the fridge vent.

United Coatings Roof Coat Elastomeric Coating

That's as far as I got on day 1 after about 5 hours of lazy work. Not a bad start. I also saw this remarkable slime mold growing in the mulch under the camper. If you have actually never seen a slime mold, check out a long time lapses of them growing! They are freaking amazing! A slime mold under the camper! Now continue to step 2 when I eliminate the remainder of the roof components!.

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