photo sharing and upload picture albums photo forums search pictures popular photos photography help login
toastertan | profile | all galleries >> Galleries >> Buell into Bobber tree view | thumbnails | slideshow

Buell into Bobber

Buell was killed as a brand and the repairs/parts cost got stupid. Not much market selling as the only thing of real value is the 1203cc Thunderstorm engine. I've not been a fan of HD's, but for 40 years had a secret lust for a 50's style old school Bobber. I also always wanted to build a bike from scratch....and the adventure began...
Started with my 98 Buell S3/T Rain Dancer. Bought this bike by accident on Ebay with 1200 miles on it.
Started with my 98 Buell S3/T "Rain Dancer". Bought this bike by accident on Ebay with 1200 miles on it. 		This 3 car garage is about 1/4 smaller than my old house. Still not organized so the CBX will have to temporarily move out.
This 3 car garage is about 1/4 smaller than my old house. Still not organized so the CBX will have to temporarily move out. 		Dismantling begins with removing all the tupperware and wheels. Bike goes up on racing stands.
Dismantling begins with removing all the tupperware and wheels. Bike goes up on racing stands. 		Now the headlight/dashboard assembly. Then the forks and bars.
Now the headlight/dashboard assembly. Then the forks and bars. 		Next is the headers, SuperTrapp silencer, mono shock, carbon fiber sub-fender and cowling.
Next is the headers, SuperTrapp silencer, mono shock, carbon fiber sub-fender and cowling.		 It was a bit wobbly so I hooked up front and back to ceiling hoists. I'll have to lift it soon anyway.
It was a bit wobbly so I hooked up front and back to ceiling hoists. I'll have to lift it soon anyway.
Two ceiling hoists were used to lift the bike off the race stands.
Two ceiling hoists were used to lift the bike off the race stands. 		With two rear tiedowns to stabilize - the headers, silencer, forks and bars are finally off.
With two rear tiedowns to stabilize - the headers, silencer, forks and bars are finally off.		 Now the wire harness has to be threaded back through the frame to keep in intact.
Now the wire harness has to be threaded back through the frame to keep in intact.		 Most of the electrical is disconnected or removed as I go.
Most of the electrical is disconnected or removed as I go. 		Wire harness is coiled on the rear frame.
Wire harness is coiled on the rear frame.		 A rod is through the lower motor mount and blocked to set the engine on.
A rod is through the lower motor mount and blocked to set the engine on.
Had to shim it here and there to sit level and secure.
Had to shim it here and there to sit level and secure.		 Removing the swingarm and you can see the two isolator mounts for the engine (left one one sheared). My 3rd set and last straw.
Removing the swingarm and you can see the two isolator mounts for the engine (left one one sheared). My 3rd set and last straw.		 Both raising the hoists and lowering the lift - the engine is wiggled out and frame is free.
Both raising the hoists and lowering the lift - the engine is wiggled out and frame is free. 		Front hoist removed and frame swings to the rear of the lift.
Front hoist removed and frame swings to the rear of the lift. 		Arizona temps are 90-100 and garage higher. I bought a portable A/C in background. Best $400 I've spent!
Arizona temps are 90-100 and garage higher. I bought a portable A/C in background. Best $400 I've spent!		 Harness doesn't look like much on the floor.
Harness doesn't look like much on the floor.
Rolled the motor into the drive for a pressure wash and scrubbing.
Rolled the motor into the drive for a pressure wash and scrubbing. 		Looks like new!
Looks like new!		 Custom Bobber frame was built for Buell engine by Bitter End Old School Choppers - Des Moines.
Custom Bobber frame was built for Buell engine by Bitter End Old School Choppers - Des Moines.		 It's in the jig for the backbone to weld on and mounting tabs.
It's in the jig for the backbone to weld on and mounting tabs.		 A few minor details left and alignment jig is on for final check.
A few minor details left and alignment jig is on for final check. 		Manufacturers Statement of Origin (MSO)will have this number. I need it to title the bike.
Manufacturers Statement of Origin (MSO)will have this number. I need it to title the bike.
Owner of Bitter End: Big Al. Ready to ship!
Owner of Bitter End: Big Al. Ready to ship!		 MY HOUSE!! ... It was like Christmas!
MY HOUSE!! ... It was like Christmas!		 My black rim over-sized rear wheel was backordered so Al loaned me an all chrome one with tire mounted so I could start fitting.
My black rim over-sized rear wheel was backordered so Al loaned me an all chrome one with tire mounted so I could start fitting.		 An old style springer made by DNA. It's a standard 28 rake.
An old style springer made by DNA. It's a standard 28 rake. 		Engine is hoisted to go in the frame.
Engine is hoisted to go in the frame. 		Took a bit to find a rear hookup point that wouldn't interfere with the installation.
Took a bit to find a rear hookup point that wouldn't interfere with the installation.
Had to support engine on a jack to switch rear hoist to other side of frame.
Had to support engine on a jack to switch rear hoist to other side of frame.		 Aligning the rear mounting plate was tricky. I made up some new swear words.
Aligning the rear mounting plate was tricky. I made up some new swear words. 		With a lot of jostling and swearing I got it in place.
With a lot of jostling and swearing I got it in place.		 Is the frame short?!! ... What the hell...?
Is the frame short?!! ... What the hell...?		 That's too big a gap to be an accident.... time to check the hardware box.
That's too big a gap to be an accident.... time to check the hardware box. 		Looked in the box of parts...Uh...doh. Front motor mounts with footpeg holes.
Looked in the box of parts...Uh...doh. Front motor mounts with footpeg holes.
Right side was a holy bitch to get in. Took me almost an hour of swearing.
Right side was a holy bitch to get in. Took me almost an hour of swearing. 		Maybe I'll just throw the wheels and fender on to see what it looks like.
Maybe I'll just throw the wheels and fender on to see what it looks like.		 Ohhh Yeah! Damn - that is really going to look sweeeet!!
Ohhh Yeah! Damn - that is really going to look sweeeet!!		 It's a long frame hardtail, but not too long.
It's a long frame hardtail, but not too long. 		Front tire is 150x80-16 and bumped the rear to a 200x60-16.... $400 for the tires...yikes!!
Front tire is 150x80-16 and bumped the rear to a 200x60-16.... $400 for the tires...yikes!!		 My oh my.... I'm really like'n it.
My oh my.... I'm really like'n it.
Big Al forgot to pack the top motor mount, but I can do without to keep building.
Big Al forgot to pack the top motor mount, but I can do without to keep building. 		Bags of parts and no directions...
Bags of parts and no directions...		 Figured out the bits. Man, HD stuff is HEAVY!
Figured out the bits. Man, HD stuff is HEAVY!		 My friend came by and insisted I put some photos of myself in.
My friend came by and insisted I put some photos of myself in. 		Getting the shifter installed and adjusted.
Getting the shifter installed and adjusted.		 Looks....very Harley...
Looks....very Harley...
They don't stick out TOO far as the bike is very skinny.
They don't stick out TOO far as the bike is very skinny. 		Front brake made by Performance Machine.
Front brake made by Performance Machine. 		Had to puzzle out shims to align the brake/wheel.
Had to puzzle out shims to align the brake/wheel. 		Still waiting for special rotor with 5 spokes and narrow friction area.
Still waiting for special rotor with 5 spokes and narrow friction area. 		The friction area is 2 and matches the pads, which will be less obtrusive than a solid disc.
The friction area is 2" and matches the pads, which will be less obtrusive than a solid disc.		 I'm converting from belt to chain drive as it looks more Old School.
I'm converting from belt to chain drive as it looks more Old School.
Holding the extended primary sprocket and $35 1 7/8 socket I had to buy.
Holding the extended primary sprocket and $35 1 7/8" socket I had to buy. 		I bent 2 pipes as breaker bars so I got a BMW fork tube and put 2 tie downs on the other side of frame.
I bent 2 pipes as breaker bars so I got a BMW fork tube and put 2 tie downs on the other side of frame.		 Ground off the chamfer on the socket to make sure it got the most bite on the thin nut.
Ground off the chamfer on the socket to make sure it got the most bite on the thin nut. 		Made sure it was seated perfectly flat over the nut and against the drive pulley.
Made sure it was seated perfectly flat over the nut and against the drive pulley.		 On the THIRD try I used all my weight and literally jumped down on it...POP!! Scared the hell out of me.
On the THIRD try I used all my weight and literally jumped down on it...POP!! Scared the hell out of me.		 The new chain pulley and lock plate. 50lbs torque - THEN 1/4 more turn to seat.
The new chain pulley and lock plate. 50lbs torque - THEN 1/4 more turn to seat.
The belt pulley off with offending nut and nutcracker.
The belt pulley off with offending nut and nutcracker. 		I hated the Swiss cheese rear brake rotor. It covered the spoke wheel completely.
I hated the Swiss cheese rear brake rotor. It covered the spoke wheel completely.		 I bought front and back spoke rotors from EBC. The front has a narrower friction area to match pad.
I bought front and back spoke rotors from EBC. The front has a narrower friction area to match pad.		 Now to align the rear wheel chain drive - then the caliper and rotor on the other side.
Now to align the rear wheel chain drive - then the caliper and rotor on the other side. 		A 1/8 spacer bolts behind the pulley to start the offset. That's close enough to work out the rest.
A 1/8" spacer bolts behind the pulley to start the offset. That's close enough to work out the rest. 		Clamped alum angle bar (perfectly straight) across flat of pulley and lightly resting on a bolt so wheel doesn't spin.
Clamped alum angle bar (perfectly straight) across flat of pulley and lightly resting on a bolt so wheel doesn't spin.
Used axle adjusters to align bar parallel across drive sprocket flat.
Used axle adjusters to align bar parallel across drive sprocket flat. 		Nudged tire until the bar was barely brushing against the sprocket flats. Perfect alignment.
Nudged tire until the bar was barely brushing against the sprocket flats. Perfect alignment. 		Chain is about 21mm
Chain is about 21mm		 The chain will hit the tire if left like this. Need to center wheel and see if it widens.
The chain will hit the tire if left like this. Need to center wheel and see if it widens.		 Now to find center for the rim. 6mm difference on the other side...so...
Now to find center for the rim. 6mm difference on the other side...so...		 Hmmm...6mm converted to 64ths, divide by 2..add..factor full moon...UH..1/8th! 1 more spacer!
Hmmm...6mm converted to 64ths, divide by 2..add..factor full moon...UH..1/8th! 1 more spacer!
Check alignment of caliper and rotor. Blue tape is to protect the loaner rim.
Check alignment of caliper and rotor. Blue tape is to protect the loaner rim. 		Way too far inboard. Would have to remove rotor to change pads.
Way too far inboard. Would have to remove rotor to change pads.		 This bracket has to bolt to frame tab not welded on yet. Too far away to bridge.
This bracket has to bolt to frame tab not welded on yet. Too far away to bridge.		 If I make a rotor spacer it brings it out of the rim.
If I make a rotor spacer it brings it out of the rim. 		Rotor/caliper moved out still leaves it short of the frame, but may be workable.
Rotor/caliper moved out still leaves it short of the frame, but may be workable.		 Will need spacers for rotor and chain pulley as well as axle to align rear wheel.
Will need spacers for rotor and chain pulley as well as axle to align rear wheel.
New rotor on so now to align the front wheel and caliper.
New rotor on so now to align the front wheel and caliper. 		A large bushing goes against the bearing and the caliper slides over it with 2 brass bushings either side.
A large bushing goes against the bearing and the caliper slides over it with 2 brass bushings either side. 		Two spacers on the right seemed to center the wheel about right.
Two spacers on the right seemed to center the wheel about right. 		When I squeezed the stack the rotor is not centered in the caliper so it needs a shim.
When I squeezed the stack the rotor is not centered in the caliper so it needs a shim. 		I align the caliper on the rotor and have a washer the thickness needed to shim the caliper over.
I align the caliper on the rotor and have a washer the thickness needed to shim the caliper over.		 With the shim in place I squeeze the stack again to hold the caliper in place.
With the shim in place I squeeze the stack again to hold the caliper in place.
Perfect! Now the pads will have equal pressure and won't drag on the rotor. 
Perfect! Now the pads will have equal pressure and won't drag on the rotor. 		 My concern now is the caliper is very close to the springer end. When it compresses it may hit it. (arrow)
My concern now is the caliper is very close to the springer end. When it compresses it may hit it. (arrow)		 I'll need another washer/shim on the front of the stack to move it over a tad.
I'll need another washer/shim on the front of the stack to move it over a tad.		 Checked centering and its 8mm wider on this side - so 4mm to center. Pretty damn close.
Checked centering and its 8mm wider on this side - so 4mm to center. Pretty damn close.		 Also need a spacer to go over the bushing to pin the caliper in place.
Also need a spacer to go over the bushing to pin the caliper in place. 		Got creative at Ace with a 1ID brass pipe. Will cut from the smooth center to make a spacer that will pin the caliper in place.
Got creative at Ace with a 1"ID brass pipe. Will cut from the smooth center to make a spacer that will pin the caliper in place.
Was going to use the smooth center, but when I cut off the end I liked the threaded part so used it!
Was going to use the smooth center, but when I cut off the end I liked the threaded part so used it!		 Ground it to size and deburred. Stack in place and looks great!
Ground it to size and deburred. Stack in place and looks great!		 Added a washer to move everything over a tad to clear the springer end.
Added a washer to move everything over a tad to clear the springer end. 		Used a plumb-bob to find center of forks for tire alignment. Within 3mm - Good Enuff!!
Used a plumb-bob to find center of forks for tire alignment. Within 3mm - Good Enuff!!		 Looks great! I'll finish the back when I get the other 1/8 spacer. Then have to position rear caliper.
Looks great! I'll finish the back when I get the other 1/8 spacer. Then have to position rear caliper.		 My favorite metal store, IMS, had tail cuttings perfect for making a spacer for the rear rotor.
My favorite metal store, IMS, had tail cuttings perfect for making a spacer for the rear rotor.
I used the drive sprocket spacers as a template and got as close to center as I could.
I used the drive sprocket spacers as a template and got as close to center as I could. 		Made sure I was vertical after clamping it on the drill press. It needs to be exact.
Made sure I was vertical after clamping it on the drill press. It needs to be exact. 		Making the initial hole, which has to be expanded to the wheel bearing housing.
Making the initial hole, which has to be expanded to the wheel bearing housing.		 Center hole is done. Now to expand outward for the more precise work.
Center hole is done. Now to expand outward for the more precise work. 		I used the center hole to expand from instead of the edge. It was tedious work, but had to fit precise.
I used the center hole to expand from instead of the edge. It was tedious work, but had to fit precise. 		After much grinding and refitting, the spacer is snug on the bearing hub.
After much grinding and refitting, the spacer is snug on the bearing hub.
I painted the spokes on the rotor to offset the chrome spoke wheel. Drilled the mounting holes using it as a template.
I painted the spokes on the rotor to offset the chrome spoke wheel. Drilled the mounting holes using it as a template.		 Had to make sure the spacer was perfectly round to the axle, so rigged up a crude way to measure it.
Had to make sure the spacer was perfectly round to the axle, so rigged up a crude way to measure it.		 As the wheel rotated I marked the high area with a sharpie. Took it off, ground a bit and repeted until it was round.
As the wheel rotated I marked the high area with a sharpie. Took it off, ground a bit and repeted until it was round.		 Rotor moved out far enough to be even with the rim edge. Close enough to bridge the gap for the caliper brace.
Rotor moved out far enough to be even with the rim edge. Close enough to bridge the gap for the caliper brace.		 2 spacers moved the sprocket out 1/4. Now to recheck the wheel alignment to see if it clears.
2 spacers moved the sprocket out 1/4". Now to recheck the wheel alignment to see if it clears.		 WooHoo! Now there is enough room for the chain to clear the tire.
WooHoo! Now there is enough room for the chain to clear the tire.
Hit the trifecta! Brake in position, chain clears the tire and the wheel is aligned to the frame!!
Hit the trifecta! Brake in position, chain clears the tire and the wheel is aligned to the frame!!		 Jim Rundle,custom tank builder, came by for detail measurements. We mapped where each tank would fit.
Jim Rundle,custom tank builder, came by for detail measurements. We mapped where each tank would fit. 		We also designed the rear fender to match the tank style. All have to hit precise marks for seat.
We also designed the rear fender to match the tank style. All have to hit precise marks for seat. 		Making sure distance above/below the spine use the space well to get 4+ gallons. Used the Buell seat to mark position.
Making sure distance above/below the spine use the space well to get 4+ gallons. Used the Buell seat to mark position. 		My concept-Jim's design. Will have locked compartment on narrow end. Stealth fighter look in aluminum.
My concept-Jim's design. Will have locked compartment on narrow end. Stealth fighter look in aluminum.		 FINALLY!! After 5 month back-order the 5.5 black rim arrives!
FINALLY!! After 5 month back-order the 5.5" black rim arrives!
Contact cement applied liberally around center, covering spoke end nibs and up to the side curve
Contact cement applied liberally around center, covering spoke end nibs and up to the side curve		 Sheet EPDM rubber or innertube cut in one, long strip works. It shoud go around the rim WITHOUT stretching.
Sheet EPDM rubber or innertube cut in one, long strip works. It shoud go around the rim WITHOUT stretching.		 Coat the rubber stip emmediately after the wheel and let it sit for at least 15-20 minutes. Very important to let glue set up.
Coat the rubber stip emmediately after the wheel and let it sit for at least 15-20 minutes. Very important to let glue set up.		 Roll out bubbles. DO NOT streatch rubber as it will contract back. Every inch rolled down with no air.
Roll out bubbles. DO NOT streatch rubber as it will contract back. Every inch rolled down with no air.		 Don't glue up sides if sharp corner or it will air-gap. Center strip is fine if spokes are covered.
Don't glue up sides if sharp corner or it will air-gap. Center strip is fine if spokes are covered.		 Overlap should have been opposite stem for balancing. When the tube is installed-put a rubber O-ring around the stem on outside.
Overlap should have been opposite stem for balancing. When the tube is installed-put a rubber O-ring around the stem on outside.
g9/94/143494/3/151806034.vC5OY0cR.jpg Stopped by Jim's shop to see progress. He has a lot of projects in work but mine at top.
Stopped by Jim's shop to see progress. He has a lot of projects in work but mine at top. 		Jim brought over the new tank for fitting. Just as I had imagined!
Jim brought over the new tank for fitting. Just as I had imagined!		 It has to flatten out in front to allow full fork swing. Long wheelbase so I need the turning radius.
It has to flatten out in front to allow full fork swing. Long wheelbase so I need the turning radius.		 The rear still needs mod to move the tank back about 1.5. Compartment can be seen on bottom.
The rear still needs mod to move the tank back about 1.5". Compartment can be seen on bottom. 		Nice job creating a small compartment for keys, money & documents. It will have a lock on it.
Nice job creating a small compartment for keys, money & documents. It will have a lock on it.
Spent way more than intended, but had to have this hand made fuel cap by Crafty-B. 5 week waiting list.
Spent way more than intended, but had to have this hand made fuel cap by Crafty-B. 5 week waiting list. 		The tank is vented so the cap doesn't need to be. $300... but REALLY like the look!
The tank is vented so the cap doesn't need to be. $300... but REALLY like the look! 		A 1930's Halibrand style racing cap. I couldn't find ANYTHING I liked better.
A 1930's Halibrand style racing cap. I couldn't find ANYTHING I liked better. 		Bought old style 7 bucket then went to Radientz for a custom lens & Devil Eye. Pie cut reflector had to be shimmed a bit.
Bought old style 7" bucket then went to Radientz for a custom lens & Devil Eye. Pie cut reflector had to be shimmed a bit. 		Radientz told me how to put ring INSIDE lens. Oven 300 for 8 minutes, slowly pried off lens & seated ring adhesive on reflector.
Radientz told me how to put ring INSIDE lens. Oven 300 for 8 minutes, slowly pried off lens & seated ring adhesive on reflector.		 reheated and seated lens back on adhesive. LED's bright enough to use as daytime running lights. low pwr draw.
reheated and seated lens back on adhesive. LED's bright enough to use as daytime running lights. low pwr draw.
Bought the brass spigot & sight gauge from an antique car parts house. The cap is from Mooney's race equipment.
Bought the brass spigot & sight gauge from an antique car parts house. The cap is from Mooney's race equipment.		 The oil tank is GREAT! Just what I wanted. Holds just short of 4 quarts, but will measure by filling.
The oil tank is GREAT! Just what I wanted. Holds just short of 4 quarts, but will measure by filling. 		Model T petcock was perfect for oil drain. I will slip a hose over the nipple when draining oil.
Model T petcock was perfect for oil drain. I will slip a hose over the nipple when draining oil. 		The sight gauge will be about 2/3 up for a full tank.
The sight gauge will be about 2/3 up for a full tank. 		Will use copper fittings and lines from the tank and a short rubber hose @ engine to dampen vibration.
Will use copper fittings and lines from the tank and a short rubber hose @ engine to dampen vibration.		 Fuel tank, oil tank, rear fender in place to check for fitting. Fender needs mods as I'm not happy with it.
Fuel tank, oil tank, rear fender in place to check for fitting. Fender needs mods as I'm not happy with it.
The tail lights & signals will be in the channels under fender with two integrated LED strips.
The tail lights & signals will be in the channels under fender with two integrated LED strips.		 Seat arrived from Mother Road Customs. They have a buffet style selection to build exactly what I wanted.
Seat arrived from Mother Road Customs. They have a buffet style selection to build exactly what I wanted. 		Seat has extra foam for my skinny ass. They did a beautiful job and took only a week to build.
Seat has extra foam for my skinny ass. They did a beautiful job and took only a week to build. 		The bike is just starting to look like the Bobber I envisioned, but not there yet.
The bike is just starting to look like the Bobber I envisioned, but not there yet. 		Where do the handlebars need to be to look as cool as possible . . .?
Where do the handlebars need to be to look as cool as possible . . .?		 New risers made for DNA springer bolted on. Now can be measured for handlebar cross tube.
New risers made for DNA springer bolted on. Now can be measured for handlebar cross tube.
Pullbacks on riser bar and can start on the arms. I'm not the best welder so a lot of grinding to make it pretty...
Pullbacks on riser bar and can start on the arms. I'm not the best welder so a lot of grinding to make it pretty...		 Old welding helmet quit so ran to Harbor Freight. Solar pwr with adjustable sensitivity/darkness. 6 yr battery life. Works slick
Old welding helmet quit so ran to Harbor Freight. Solar pwr with adjustable sensitivity/darkness. 6 yr battery life. Works slick		 Kluged together jig to weld arms at right angle. Don't laugh - it worked.
Kluged together jig to weld arms at right angle. Don't laugh - it worked. 		Look like a Power Ranger, but the new helmet works great. Yes - I burned the level...
Look like a Power Ranger, but the new helmet works great. Yes - I burned the level...		 Will cut arms to length after fitting the hand controls and sitting on the bike for best arm spread.
Will cut arms to length after fitting the hand controls and sitting on the bike for best arm spread. 		The bars will look great. Will cut holes to route control wires thru bars and out in center.
The bars will look great. Will cut holes to route control wires thru bars and out in center.
HD rear brake is big and fugly so bought horizontal one and remote reservoir so more mounting options.
HD rear brake is big and fugly so bought horizontal one and remote reservoir so more mounting options.		 New one tucks under motor so will have shorter push rod with better alignment.
New one tucks under motor so will have shorter push rod with better alignment. 		Can tuck reservoir away. It was surprise find on Ebay. Took a chance from Hong Kong but seller had high marks.
Can tuck reservoir away. It was surprise find on Ebay. Took a chance from Hong Kong but seller had high marks.		 Astounded at high quality machining, finish, sight window and rubber gasket! $17 delivered!!
Astounded at high quality machining, finish, sight window and rubber gasket! $17 delivered!! 		Two integrated LED tail light strips from Radientz (their photo). Will seat in fender channels - VERY bright.
Two integrated LED tail light strips from Radientz (their photo). Will seat in fender channels - VERY bright.		 LOVE the new mods to fender. Extra bevel in rear & diamond cut on top corner. Trimmed off from tail light back.
LOVE the new mods to fender. Extra bevel in rear & diamond cut on top corner. Trimmed off from tail light back.
Now it looks like it all fits together! It's shaping up to be the custom Bobber envisioned.
Now it looks like it all fits together! It's shaping up to be the custom Bobber envisioned.		 Custom handlebars in place and waiting for 2nd modification of rear fender. Not happy with the look of the first model.
Custom handlebars in place and waiting for 2nd modification of rear fender. Not happy with the look of the first model.		 Twin AirRide seat absorbers from TC Brothers. Dampen vibration from hard-tail frame as well as cushions ride.
Twin AirRide seat absorbers from TC Brothers. Dampen vibration from hard-tail frame as well as cushions ride. 		Checking position to weld brackets. The seat sits too high so have to figure something out.
Checking position to weld brackets. The seat sits too high so have to figure something out.		 The first seat mount I made put the seat too high so have to figure out how to drop it down.
The first seat mount I made put the seat too high so have to figure out how to drop it down.		 Cut off the plate that came with AirShocks to fit between frame. Angle is wrong for seat positioning.
Cut off the plate that came with AirShocks to fit between frame. Angle is wrong for seat positioning.
The frame tabs are in the way to drop angle down. Have to cut them.
The frame tabs are in the way to drop angle down. Have to cut them.		 Used the old mount to measure angle the seat has to be.
Used the old mount to measure angle the seat has to be. 		Hard to get the grinder in for the cuts.
Hard to get the grinder in for the cuts.		 That should do it.
That should do it. 		Now it angles the seat forward and is lower in the bike frame.
Now it angles the seat forward and is lower in the bike frame.		 Will grind off more of the gussets so the air valve nuts will clear.
Will grind off more of the gussets so the air valve nuts will clear.
Perfect. The plate will replace the gussets and will actually be stronger.
Perfect. The plate will replace the gussets and will actually be stronger. 		New controls by Arlen Ness slipped on with integrated mirrors by Rivco.
New controls by Arlen Ness slipped on with integrated mirrors by Rivco. 		Mirrors have large, amber, LED turn indicator arrows on mirror side.
Mirrors have large, amber, LED turn indicator arrows on mirror side. 		Back side (forward facing) has daylight bright amber LED signals, which are also running lights.
Back side (forward facing) has daylight bright amber LED signals, which are also running lights.		 There is no need to mount separate turn indicators with these mirrors. Look great with the bike and bars.
There is no need to mount separate turn indicators with these mirrors. Look great with the bike and bars. 		Selected Desert Custom Cycles to build the exhaust. Front is a local hang out for customers.
Selected Desert Custom Cycles to build the exhaust. Front is a local hang out for customers.
Out in back with my Bobber, fabricator Phil on left - Bill, the owner, on right.
Out in back with my Bobber, fabricator Phil on left - Bill, the owner, on right.		 With his dog supervising, Phil starts planning the routing of the exhaust.
With his dog supervising, Phil starts planning the routing of the exhaust. 		Lays out the stock and we look at routing. I wanted pipes straight out on both sides.
Lays out the stock and we look at routing. I wanted pipes straight out on both sides. 		Needed to keep them low so the radiated heat doesn't fry the rider. Pipe size bumped from 1.75 to 2 at third bend.
Needed to keep them low so the radiated heat doesn't fry the rider. Pipe size bumped from 1.75 to 2" at third bend.		 First tried routing the front forward around the pegs and down under - but didn't look right with the other side.
First tried routing the front forward around the pegs and down under - but didn't look right with the other side. 		When routed high was able to match the left side bends for consistancy and line flow.
When routed high was able to match the left side bends for consistancy and line flow.
The trick was routing to preserve the center space for the oil bag and battery.
The trick was routing to preserve the center space for the oil bag and battery.		 Oil bag set in place with block of wood. Looks awesome!
Oil bag set in place with block of wood. Looks awesome!

comment
click on thumbnails for full image