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Tikal, Guatemala (March 2007)

Tikal is the New York City of the Maya world. The place is big and its temples, like skyscrapers, reach for the stars! Not only are the temples large, but there are a lot of them! Many call Tikal one of the most spiritually powerful spots on earth. Like all unexplained mysteries, it is fascinating and irresistible. Tikal is one of the largest Maya cities ever uncovered. It has the most spectacular ruins in Guatemala, which are comparable to Mexico's Chichén Itzá. However, unlike at Chichén Itzá, the ruins of Tikal are set in the middle of a jungle through which you must hike from temple to temple. The many miles of trails provide numerous opportunities to spot interesting birds such as toucans and parrots, and wild animals including coatimundis, spider monkeys, howler monkeys and deer. Archaeologists say that Tikal was the largest capitol of the Maya Cities. At its height during its Classic period after 500 AD, it had a population of 50,000 to 100,000 persons. For reasons unclear, around 870 AD, construction slowed and the city began to decline. Some theories for the decline are: draught, internal strife (including warfare between competing elites) and even inbreeding among Tikal’s inhabitants (or a combination thereof). By the end of 900 AD, Tikal was completely abandoned. Tikal has an estimated 3,000 structures. In the partially restored area, there are nine groups of courts and plazas. There are 5 large temples, of which, the most impressive and tallest is Temple IV at 229 ft.
Tikal, Guatemala cover page.
Tikal, Guatemala cover page.		 Map of Guatemala with the star indicating Tikal.
Map of Guatemala with the star indicating Tikal.		 Base of the deciduous Ceiba tree. It's prevalent in Central America's tropical rain forests and reaches heights up to 70 meters.
Base of the deciduous Ceiba tree. It's prevalent in Central America's tropical rain forests and reaches heights up to 70 meters.		 Top of the Ceiba tree which also has extensive and wide roots and which was declared Guatemala's National Forest Tree.
Top of the Ceiba tree which also has extensive and wide roots and which was declared "Guatemala's National Forest Tree."
The first thing that I saw in Tikal was this one of the Twin Pyramids at Complex Q built by the ruler Chitam in 771 A.D.
The first thing that I saw in Tikal was this one of the Twin Pyramids at Complex Q built by the ruler Chitam in 771 A.D.		 I made a point to climb every pyramid or temple possible in Tikal including this one at Complex Q.
I made a point to climb every pyramid or temple possible in Tikal including this one at Complex Q.		 The view looking down from the top of the pyramid at Complex Q.
The view looking down from the top of the pyramid at Complex Q.		 The buildings at Complex Q were built to celebrate the end of a 20-year period, called a Katun, in the Maya Long Count calendar.
The buildings at Complex Q were built to celebrate the end of a 20-year period, called a Katun, in the Maya Long Count calendar.
A stela (an upright stone or slab with an inscribed or sculptured surface) and altar at Complex Q.
A stela (an upright stone or slab with an inscribed or sculptured surface) and altar at Complex Q.		 I saw this Ocellated Turkey on a trail in Tikal. I also heard, but did not photograph, an enraged Howler Monkey.
I saw this Ocellated Turkey on a trail in Tikal. I also heard, but did not photograph, an enraged Howler Monkey.		 Temple IV is the highest temple in Tikal at 229 ft. and the highest structure in the Americas until the advent of skyscrapers.
Temple IV is the highest temple in Tikal at 229 ft. and the highest structure in the Americas until the advent of skyscrapers.		 The daunting steps going up to Temple IV. The temple was built in 741 A.D.
The daunting steps going up to Temple IV. The temple was built in 741 A.D.
Temple IV is one of the tallest and most massive pre-Columbian structures in the Americas built by ruler Jasaw Chan K’awiil.
Temple IV is one of the tallest and most massive pre-Columbian structures in the Americas built by ruler Jasaw Chan K’awiil.		 Looking down the steps. The climb is not for those out of shape or for the feint of heart!
Looking down the steps. The climb is not for those out of shape or for the feint of heart!		 Tourists standing at the top of Temple IV. Being the highest temple, the view is spectacular up there!
Tourists standing at the top of Temple IV. Being the highest temple, the view is spectacular up there!		 Looking at the view of the rain forest below, it is hard to imagine that 1,200 years ago, the area was all agricultural.
Looking at the view of the rain forest below, it is hard to imagine that 1,200 years ago, the area was all agricultural.
View of Temples I and II from the top of Temple IV in Tikal.
View of Temples I and II from the top of Temple IV in Tikal.		 View of Temple III from the top of Temple IV in Tikal.
View of Temple III from the top of Temple IV in Tikal.		 View of Mundo Perdido (Lost World) from the top of Temple IV with a Ceiba tree to the left.
View of Mundo Perdido (Lost World) from the top of Temple IV with a Ceiba tree to the left.		 That's me on top of Temple IV with Temples I, II and III in the background.
That's me on top of Temple IV with Temples I, II and III in the background.
Next, I went to Mundo Perdido (Lost World), which is believed to be the oldest complex in Tikal. Seen here is the big pyramid.
Next, I went to Mundo Perdido (Lost World), which is believed to be the oldest complex in Tikal. Seen here is the big pyramid.		 Lost World was built and rebuilt, but it's earliest structures predate 500 B.C. making it likely the original center of Tikal.
Lost World was built and rebuilt, but it's earliest structures predate 500 B.C. making it likely the original center of Tikal.		 These steps were a real killer. They were among the few original steps (not wooden) that I was allowed to climb.
These steps were a real killer. They were among the few original steps (not wooden) that I was allowed to climb.		 Me on top of the Lost World pyramid. A smaller pyramid and Temple IV are in the background.
Me on top of the Lost World pyramid. A smaller pyramid and Temple IV are in the background.
Looking down the steps from over 100 feet up. There are 4 stairways to the top, each flanked by massive stone masks.
Looking down the steps from over 100 feet up. There are 4 stairways to the top, each flanked by massive stone masks.		 View from the top of the Lost World. The fact that it is flat on the top makes it distinctive from other Tikal temples.
View from the top of the Lost World. The fact that it is flat on the top makes it distinctive from other Tikal temples.		 Close-up of the smaller pyramid as seen from as seen from the top of the big pyramid.
Close-up of the smaller pyramid as seen from as seen from the top of the big pyramid.		 Close-up of Temple IV as seen from as seen from the top of the Lost World.
Close-up of Temple IV as seen from as seen from the top of the Lost World.
View of a Ceiba tree with Temple III (which is unexcavated) in the background.
View of a Ceiba tree with Temple III (which is unexcavated) in the background.		 View of Temple III from ground level after I had climbed down from the Lost World.
View of Temple III from ground level after I had climbed down from the Lost World.		 I was taken by this beautiful Ceiba tree set against the cloudy sky in Tikal.
I was taken by this beautiful Ceiba tree set against the cloudy sky in Tikal.		 On the walk from the Lost World to the Great Plaza, I passed by these ruins of small pyramids in Tikal.
On the walk from the Lost World to the Great Plaza, I passed by these ruins of small pyramids in Tikal.
The rear side of Temple II which is also known as the Temple of Masks.
The rear side of Temple II which is also known as the Temple of Masks.		 Seeing the Great Plaza and the steep wooden stairs Temple II for the first time was mind-blowing experience!
Seeing the Great Plaza and the steep wooden stairs Temple II for the first time was mind-blowing experience!		 It's believed Temple II was created by ruler Ah Cacau in 684 A.D. to honor his wife. Her tomb has not been found in it, though.
It's believed Temple II was created by ruler Ah Cacau in 684 A.D. to honor his wife. Her tomb has not been found in it, though.		 View from the Temple of Masks of an almost identical temple in the Great Plaza, Temple I (the Temple of the Grand Jaguar).
View from the Temple of Masks of an almost identical temple in the Great Plaza, Temple I (the Temple of the Grand Jaguar).
I couldn't resist climbing up those steep steps to the top!
I couldn't resist climbing up those steep steps to the top!		 More views from Temple II onto the Great Plaza. In Mayan times, there was no grass. The Plaza was paved with limestone plaster.
More views from Temple II onto the Great Plaza. In Mayan times, there was no grass. The Plaza was paved with limestone plaster.		 View towards the North Acropolis. Note the thatched roofs below. They protect massive relief sculptures underneath.
View towards the North Acropolis. Note the thatched roofs below. They protect massive relief sculptures underneath.		 This bird joined me at the top of the Temple II for the view of the Great Plaza.
This bird joined me at the top of the Temple II for the view of the Great Plaza.
Roofcomb (window) on top of Temple II. Since there is very little space in the temples, they were mostly for religious use.
Roofcomb (window) on top of Temple II. Since there is very little space in the temples, they were mostly for religious use.		 View of the stairs as I climbed back down from Temple II. I prayed that the planks weren't rotten!
View of the stairs as I climbed back down from Temple II. I prayed that the planks weren't rotten!		 View of Temple I from the North Acropolis. The tomb of ruler Jasaw Chan K’awiil I (682-734) lies under it at the plaza level.
View of Temple I from the North Acropolis. The tomb of ruler Jasaw Chan K’awiil I (682-734) lies under it at the plaza level.		 View of Temple II from the North Acropolis. These temples are also endowed with incredible acoustics.
View of Temple II from the North Acropolis. These temples are also endowed with incredible acoustics.
In Mayan times, the accoustics were so good, one could speak in a normal voice and be heard between the tops of the two temples.
In Mayan times, the accoustics were so good, one could speak in a normal voice and be heard between the tops of the two temples.		 Panoramic view of the Great Plaza with Temple I and the Temple II on the right and left. In Mayan times, they were painted red.
Panoramic view of the Great Plaza with Temple I and the Temple II on the right and left. In Mayan times, they were painted red.		 Interior view inside the North Acropolis. It is composed of structures built on top of each other starting as early as 400 B.C.
Interior view inside the North Acropolis. It is composed of structures built on top of each other starting as early as 400 B.C.		 North Acropolis was chosen for the burial ground of the rulers of Tikal for over 5 centuries between 1 A.D. and 550 A.D.
North Acropolis was chosen for the burial ground of the rulers of Tikal for over 5 centuries between 1 A.D. and 550 A.D.
Archeologists believe that North Acropolis (and Lost World) are the most ancient areas where the first settlers came to Tikal.
Archeologists believe that North Acropolis (and Lost World) are the most ancient areas where the first settlers came to Tikal.		 In Mayan times, North Acropolis was painted in brilliant colors, looking very different from the bare rock we see today.
In Mayan times, North Acropolis was painted in brilliant colors, looking very different from the bare rock we see today.		 The Central Acropolis is the fourth series of structures that surround the Great Plaza.
The Central Acropolis is the fourth series of structures that surround the Great Plaza.		 The series of small rooms and terraces in Central Acropolis are thought to be ceremonial areas and storage for artifacts.
The series of small rooms and terraces in Central Acropolis are thought to be ceremonial areas and storage for artifacts.
An abundance of ancient graffiti covers the interior walls of the Central Acropolis depicting the gods and ancient events.
An abundance of ancient graffiti covers the interior walls of the Central Acropolis depicting the gods and ancient events.		 It was the likely viewpoint for the nobles to watch the games of the renowned ball courts. One of them is visible near Temple I.
It was the likely viewpoint for the nobles to watch the games of the renowned ball courts. One of them is visible near Temple I.		 Rear view of Temple I (the Grand Jaguar Temple) as I was leaving the Great Plaza.
Rear view of Temple I (the Grand Jaguar Temple) as I was leaving the Great Plaza.		 A sign in Tikal describing a chultun (a bottle-shaped cistern built underground by the ancient Mayans).
A sign in Tikal describing a chultun (a bottle-shaped cistern built underground by the ancient Mayans).
This hole could have been used by the Mayans for anything from storage to religious rituals.
This hole could have been used by the Mayans for anything from storage to religious rituals.		 Pathway leading to the Late Classical Group G, which forms one of the largest clusters of major palace construction at Tikal.
Pathway leading to the Late Classical Group G, which forms one of the largest clusters of major palace construction at Tikal.		 Group G is associated with the Late Classic ruler Yik’in Chan Kawil. Group G may have been his private palace quarters.
Group G is associated with the Late Classic ruler Yik’in Chan Kawil. Group G may have been his private palace quarters.		 Yik’in Chan Kawil was an even more prodigious builder than his father, Jasaw Chan K’awiil. Yik’in constructed Temples IV and VI.
Yik’in Chan Kawil was an even more prodigious builder than his father, Jasaw Chan K’awiil. Yik’in constructed Temples IV and VI.
Me standing in front of a narrow passageway in the Group G complex in Tikal (also known as Palacio de las Acanaladuras).
Me standing in front of a narrow passageway in the Group G complex in Tikal (also known as Palacio de las Acanaladuras).		 Another narrow passageway. Group G has an aisle vault leading to an inner court of 2 floors.
Another narrow passageway. Group G has an aisle vault leading to an inner court of 2 floors.		 Me posing again at Group G.
Me posing again at Group G.		 I climbed up to the top of the Group G and took this picture looking down from it.
I climbed up to the top of the Group G and took this picture looking down from it.
Door leading to a tunnel under Group G, which contained some hieroglyphics painted on plaster. The door is not original
Door leading to a tunnel under Group G, which contained some hieroglyphics painted on plaster. The door is not original		 View of Temple V coming from behind, my next destination after leaving Group G.
View of Temple V coming from behind, my next destination after leaving Group G.		 Photo showing Temple V before it was renovated. It was covered by the rainforest growth.
Photo showing Temple V before it was renovated. It was covered by the rainforest growth.		 Photo showing Temple V after it was renovated. This is how it looked when I saw it.
Photo showing Temple V after it was renovated. This is how it looked when I saw it.
At 59 meters (190 ft.), Temple V is the second tallest temple at Tikal. It's believed to be the burial site of an unknown ruler.
At 59 meters (190 ft.), Temple V is the second tallest temple at Tikal. It's believed to be the burial site of an unknown ruler.		 Temple V was recently restored. It's thought that it was commissioned and built by the ruler Animal Skull in 600 A.D.
Temple V was recently restored. It's thought that it was commissioned and built by the ruler Animal Skull in 600 A.D.		 In my opinion, the stairs going up Temple V are the most nerve-wracking in all of Tikal!
In my opinion, the stairs going up Temple V are the most nerve-wracking in all of Tikal!		 View from the top of Temple V of the rainforest below and (what I believe is) Temple I.
View from the top of Temple V of the rainforest below and (what I believe is) Temple I.
View looking directly down from Temple V. You can see how steep it was.
View looking directly down from Temple V. You can see how steep it was.		 The ledge on top of Temple V was narrow. The last death in Tikal was a photographer who stepped back too far!
The ledge on top of Temple V was narrow. The last death in Tikal was a photographer who stepped back too far!		 Looking down the precipitous stairs of Temple V. It was tortuous to get up them!
Looking down the precipitous stairs of Temple V. It was tortuous to get up them!		 View of some other tourists who were adventurous enough (or insane enough) to go to the top of Temple V with me.
View of some other tourists who were adventurous enough (or insane enough) to go to the top of Temple V with me.
That's me on top of Temple V. I believe that's Temple I behind me since we were facing the Great Plaza.
That's me on top of Temple V. I believe that's Temple I behind me since we were facing the Great Plaza.		 A closer view of what I believe was Temple I (as seen from the top of Temple V).
A closer view of what I believe was Temple I (as seen from the top of Temple V).		 View of a Ceiba tree and the rain forest from the top of Temple V.
View of a Ceiba tree and the rain forest from the top of Temple V.		 This workman, who was doing excavation work near the Plaza of the Seven Temples, let me snap his picture.
This workman, who was doing excavation work near the Plaza of the Seven Temples, let me snap his picture.
My next stop was the Plaza of the Seven Temples, east of the Plaza of the Great Pyramid, dating from the Preclassic Period.
My next stop was the Plaza of the Seven Temples, east of the Plaza of the Great Pyramid, dating from the Preclassic Period.		 It's called Seven Temples because of the seven Late Classic Period temples there which were among the most attractive in Tikal.
It's called Seven Temples because of the seven Late Classic Period temples there which were among the most attractive in Tikal.		 The Plaza of the Seven Temples is currently undergoing a major excavation and restoration which has many more years to go.
The Plaza of the Seven Temples is currently undergoing a major excavation and restoration which has many more years to go.		 Plaza of the Seven Temples is unique because it contained 3 Mayan ballfields where the Mayan ball game (named Pitz) was played.
Plaza of the Seven Temples is unique because it contained 3 Mayan ballfields where the Mayan ball game (named Pitz) was played.
It was the first sport in the history of the humankind, dating from at least 2500 B.C.
It was the first sport in the history of the humankind, dating from at least 2500 B.C.		 After leaving the Plaza of the Seven Temples, I saw this ancient Mayan alter.
After leaving the Plaza of the Seven Temples, I saw this ancient Mayan alter.		 My very last stop in Tikal was the Twin Pyramid Complex P. Many sculptures and carvings were found in Complex P.
My very last stop in Tikal was the Twin Pyramid Complex P. Many sculptures and carvings were found in Complex P.		 Yik'in, son of ruler Jasaw Chan K’awiill, built Twin Pyramid Complex P to celebrate the end of the the Katun on May 7, 751 A.D.
Yik'in, son of ruler Jasaw Chan K’awiill, built Twin Pyramid Complex P to celebrate the end of the the Katun on May 7, 751 A.D.
However, a temple in the complex dates earlier to around 530 A.D. (a Katun is a 20-year cycle in the Maya Long Count calendar).
However, a temple in the complex dates earlier to around 530 A.D. (a Katun is a 20-year cycle in the Maya Long Count calendar).		 I got nervous when I climbed to the top of this pyramid, because several black vultures were waiting for me!
I got nervous when I climbed to the top of this pyramid, because several black vultures were waiting for me!		 Close-up of one of the black vultures on top of the Twin Pyramid Complex P.
Close-up of one of the black vultures on top of the Twin Pyramid Complex P.		 To the vultures' dismay, I didn’t fall off this Complex P ledge. They’ll have to wait for another tourist for their next meal!
To the vultures' dismay, I didn’t fall off this Complex P ledge. They’ll have to wait for another tourist for their next meal!

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