10-13-2005

We awoke to the greyest day so far augmented by light rain interrupted by heavy rain. The pagoda which was about 400 meters from the ship was barely visible. Donning rain coats and wielding umbrellas we tromped through the mandatory market on the way to the attraction. I elected not to climb to the top, but Leslie did. From her photos it probably was a worthwhile effort. The guide didn't sell the pagoda as interesting on the inside, just that there was a great view from the top. I did a bit of shopping which involves fending off the pushy “hello look – hello gooda prices” people. Hard-line negotiation is the rule. Fortunately by now we had a good feel for what prices should be. An embroidered tassel thing began at 100 Yuan and finished at 7. The ritual involves sessions of writing numbers on a scrap of paper, much anguish and contorted faces on the part of the merchant, finally walking away only to be chased and acceptance of your final offer. Back at the boat I attempted photographing the pagoda once again, little success. I decided the best would be to just take a picture of the little brochure they handed out. From the photo you can see how high above the river it sits. When the dam is completed the water will be lapping at the base of the entrance. They plan to build a bit of a wall around it and make it an island. As I write we’re sailing past interesting farmland and the occasional new town built to house the displaced people. Once again it is frustrating that none of it can be seen clearly. Today is by far the darkest and fog / haze obscured day we have had. Right now I cannot see the shore from the cabin. We get thrown off the boat tomorrow.