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Steve Zimmermann | profile | all galleries >> En France 2004 >> Taillevent tree view | thumbnails | slideshow

Taillevent

We chose to spend one of our afternoons in Paris lunching at the legendary Michelin 3-star restaurant. Photos by Steve and Paulette Zimmermann, and Doug Peel. Captions by Steve, with quotes excerpted from the delightful book "A Meal Observed" by Andrew Todhunter.

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A Humble Eater 18-Feb-2008 20:45
Jean-Claude Vrinat, owner and brilliant orchestrator of Taillevent, died on January 7. Our memories of him standing by our table engaging in easy conversation to ensure our every pleasure and watching him then cross the room to remove a guest's empty plate with a dancer's grace are indelible.

Our relationship began some time ago when I requested a reservation. I was delightfully surprised to receive a reply directly from him. His personal warmth shone through, even in two dimensions. "Should I be of any help to make your stay in Paris more pleasant, don’t hesitate in letting me know. In the meantime, I send you my most sincere regards."

Being a brazen American I took him at his word. Putting ourselves in his capable hands, we allowed him to guide us through the Paris he knew. Of course, everything was perfect; our visits to his beautiful city became idyllic.

M. Vrinat and I engaged in an occasional correspondence. We asked each other questions. Replying to one of my last queries he wrote, "I hope my last meal will be in many years; the dish I should like to eat is the 'Chausson de Truffe' at l’Ambroisie, place des Vosges. Will God let me be lucky enough to eat this out of the world dish?"

Monsieur Vrinat was one of the last grand restauranteurs. In an era now dominated by celebrity chefs with outsize personalities, Taillevent was his understated creation, his art. A driven yet gentle perfectionist, he saw to every detail of decor, cuisine and ambience. Of course, at the end of the day food's the focus, and there was never a shortage of brilliant cooks eager to ply their trade with him.

The Vrinat family lives above the family store, a 19th century palace built for a nephew of Napoleon. His wife, Simone, and daughter, Valerie, will continue the family endeavor. Taillevent is closed on weekends, as weekends are to be spent with one's family. This last detail might well be the man's defining trait. He was good in the way so many of us strive but fail to be.

No doubt Jean-Claude Vrinat is enjoying his favored ambrosia, Chausson de Truffe, in heaven. Between morsels he's guiding other diners to their tables with that unforgettable angelic smile and an outstretched hand.

Thank you for these wonderful photos, a beautiful tribute to one of the world's finest dining experiences and the most humane of gentlemen who made it possible.
Guest 19-May-2005 19:15
Nice report, thanks for sharing
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