The sommeliers have chosen a few moderately priced wines to complement the bargain menu, and to avoid burdening the client on a budget with the temptations of the full list. However, something fundamental has changed since 1999 when Andrew Todhunter researched his closely observed account. The European Union creeps in on little cat feet, infiltrating even this bastion of high French style.

"The wine list offers some four hundred French wines from twelve regions, including Bordeaux, Champagne, Burgundy, Côtes du Rhone, Alsace and the Loire. There is not a single foreign bottle on the list. No Chilean Médocs, no Californian Chardonnays, no Australian Wullabuggas."

- "A Meal Observed", p. 64