Finally, a town in Ethiopia I enjoyed. The ruins of ancient Axum are not terribly impressive, unless you are deeply moved by piles of rocks, but the town itself is nice and quiet. Not so many annoying touts, though there are still quite a few. I enjoyed walking around the old town and up in the hills surrounding the town. As is so often the case, the tourist attraction itself (the piles of rocks) left me cold, but the town surrounding it was very nice. Well worth a visit.