Travel Day: Sun, Mar 3, 2024

A colorful couple at the Atlanta airport

Steve and Mary, on the plane to Quito

Nadine and Jimmy, on their way, first trip to Ecuador

Our first night we stayed at the Hotel San José de Puembo.

Day 1: Mon, Mar 4, 2024--Yanacocha Reserve

We left early from our hotel, San José de Puembo, on the outskirts of Quito, and headed to Yanacocha Reserve.

Nadine was ready to see hummingbirds.

We hiked a trail up from the entrance: Becky, Dawn, Vicki and Ross (behind), Tice, Nadine, Steve, Rebecca and Andres.

A sign with the many hummingbirds we were looking for.

Tice and Mary, having a discussion on the trail

Catching up

Tice and Mary, under one of the many big Gunneria (Giant Rhubarb) plants

Into the fog

Deeper into the fog

Lost in the fog

More birds of Yanacocha

Nadine posed along the trail, with Dawn, Ross, Jimmy, Andres and others behind her.

Nadine, Jimmy, Ross (behind), Becky, Tice, Jerry, Vicki, Andres, Garry, on the trail

The Oklahoma girls, Rebecca, Mary, Nadine, with Becky, Ross, Tice, Jimmy, Garry (behind), Jerry, Vicki, Dawn and Andres, ahead on the trail

Stopping to looking for a bird in the bush

Garry, Tice, Jimmy, Ross, Vicki (behind), Dawn, Andres, Becky, Nadine (behind), Rebecca and Jerry

End of Day 1: Mon, Mar 4, 2024--Yanacocha Reserve

Day 2: Tue, Mar 5, 2024--Rio Silanche Reserve

On the tower at Rio Silanche Reserve: Garry, Anres, Rebecca, Jimmy and Nadine

Observing the birds at our lunch location: San Miguel de Los Bancos--Mirador Río Blanco
Dawn, Tice, Vicki (behind Tice), Jimmy, Nadine and Rebecca

Enjoying the show before lunch: Dawn, Tice, Vicki, Rebecca, Jimmy

Tice seems to be first to notice the little Green Thorntail on the palm leaf.

Then Dawn notices it.

The Green Thorntail, Dawn and Tice

Tice decides to test her hummingbird wrangling skills.

Closing the gap

What is the other thorntail thinking?

End of Day 2: Tue, Mar 5, 2024--Rio Silanche Reserve and Los Bancos

Day 3: Wed, Mar 6, 2024--Amagusa Reserve

Sergio (and his family) hosted us at Amagusa Reserve.

Welcome sign at the parking lot

Protect the forest and the endemic birds in danger of extinction.

Signs at the entrance to the reserve

I think this is a certificate thanking Reserva Amagusa for being a part of the Chocó Andino de Pichincha Biosphere Reserve, a UNESCO-supported initiative.

Signs noting tanager and hummingbird viewing areas

The view from the tanager viewing deck, including a 'moth sheet'

A well-used field guide on the deck at Amagusa Reserve

Rebecca, Dawn, Becky, Ross, Mary, Nadine, Steve (behind), Vickie, Andres (behind), Jimmy, Sergio (owner of Amagusa Reserva)

Lined up to catch the show: Ross, Andres, Dawn, Nadine, Rebecca (sitting), Tice, Garry, Becky, Jimmy

Sergio, re-stocking the feeders below the deck

Becky, Jerry, Vickie, Andres, Dawn, Jimmy, Garry

Everybody else is trying to find a bird in a bush, but Jimmy, the raptor-spotter, has his eyes on the sky.

Becky, Garry, Jerry, Vickie, Andres, Dawn, Steve, Jimmy

After the birding at the tanager spot died down, Steve sneaked down to get some moth pictures.

Jerry caught me too.
Photo by JWD.

When we started walking up toward the hummingbird feeders, Vickie got a surprise: Sergio handed her a banana and a Moss-backed Tanager came in to eat out of her hand.

Nose-to-beak with a Moss-beaked Tanager

Sergio's family prepared us a very nice meal while we watched more birds from their dining area.

Carlos took some photos of the group with our host, Sergio.
Garry, Becky, Jimmy, Ross, Tice, Dawn, Andres, Mary, Nadine, Vickie, Jerry, Sergio, Rebecca, Steve

Last of Day 3: Wed, Mar 6, 2024--at Amagusa Reserve

Day 4: Thu, Mar 7, 2024--at Bellavista Road, Sachatamia Lodge and Sendero Frutty Tour

The view out the bus window on our way to Bellavista Road

Nearing our destination

A little more rain and we might not have gotten past this washed out portion of the road.

And it's a long way down.

Mary and the view along Bellavista Road

We took time for a few group photos along the road.

Jimmy, Tice, Becky, Dawn, Jerry, Ross, Nadine, Andres, Garry, Vickie, Mary, Rebecca

Then we spread out to find birds.
Garry, Becky, Ross, Andres, Dawn, Jimmy, Jerry, Nadine, Rebecca, Vickie, Tice, Mary

Nadine and Jimmy

Mary at the crossroads

We were listening to an Azara's Spinetail that was calling from the bushes, but never wanted to show itself.

Still looking
Jimmy, Steve, Becky, Dawn

Sign for Bellavista Lodge, where we stayed on our March 2018 trip

Jimmy, Steve, Dawn, Becky, Garry, Andres, Jerry, Ross, Tice

Mary and Steve

Some forest views

Protected by Socio Bosque
Since 2008, The Socio Bosque Program, a voluntary incentive-based scheme with combined environmental and socioeconomic targets, is Ecuador's $61M response to commercial and agricultural loss of lands that support ecotourism. It hopes to protect 4 million hectares, nearly 16% of Ecuador's total land mass, and help between 500,000 and 1 million people. https://initiative20x20.org/restoration-projects/ecuadors-socio-bosque-program

Clouds and a Silvery Cecropia

Green hillside

Wash day

Patterns

On the viewing deck at Sendero Frutty Tour
Tice, Jerry, Vickie, Garry, Jerry

Mary took a photo of the logo for our bus that was on the backs of the seats.

Last of Day 4: Thu, Mar 7, 2024--at Bellevista Road, Sachatamia and Sendero Frutty Tour

Day 5: Fri, Mar 8, 2024--at Refugio Paz de las Aves, Mirador Guaycapi, and Hotel Carrión

As we were packing up to leave our room at Sachatamia Rainforest Reserve Lodge, I noticed this little box on the desk.

It was a little welcoming gift with chocolates in it!

The sun and sky were promising as we approached Refugio de las Aves.

Landscape of the refuge

Shortly after we arrived, we took off down the trail to the Cock-of-the-Rock lek.
Ross and Mary, on the trail

After visiting the Cock-of-the-Rock lek, we had some light sandwiches the hotel had prepared for us, before riding a short distance on the bus to a restroom stop, then on to the first antpitta viewing spot, to see Wilhemina, the Yellow-Breasted Antpitta (The staff are so familiar with the birds they have named each one).

There were a couple of other smaller groups with us to see the birds.

After seeing the Yellow-breasted Antpitta, we got back on the bus and drove to the next location, with a steep and muddy trail, to see Maria the Giant Antpitta. While we waited for word that the bird was going to make an appearance, we birded along the road next to the trail.
Jimmy, 3 members of another group, Vickie, Andres, Andy (grandson of Angel, the refuge owner), Dawn, Jerry, Tice, 2 members of another group, Becky, Nadine, Garry, Ross

Looking down into the valley from where we stopped

When we got the 'go' signal, we started down the steep trail to see the Giant Antpitta.
From the top: Andy, Nadine, Rebecca, Ross, Dawn, Jerry, Jimmy

There were some places near the bottom of the trail that were so muddy, the staff had laid small logs for us to walk on, which were tricky to negotiate.

It was a long hike down and back, but everyone made it and saw the Giant Antpitta. Then we all discussed the trek and the bird while we waited for Carlos to bring the bus.

Dawn, Andres, Ross, Angel (the refuge founder), Nadine, Becky, Mary, Garry

Our reward for all our schlepping up and down in the mud was a nice warm breakfast at the new (since we were here last) restaurant at the refuge.

Fancy place mat

Mary, member of another group, Becky, young Paz family member (on the patio), member of another group, Dawn, Ross, Garry (out on the patio), Vickie

Ready to eat

Besides helping guide us to the birds, Andy helped serve us breakfast.

Jerry and Becky, with members of other groups behind them

Andres was also making sure everyone got drinks and food.

Feeders and a garden below the covered deck on the side of the restaurant

Checking out the feeders from the deck after breakfast
Tice, Nadine, Steve, Jimmy, Andres

The Paz family has built a pavilion with feeders around it where we waited while they tried to locate another antpitta.
Ross, Dawn, Nadine, Jerry, Jimmy, Andres, Garry, Vickie, Tice, Mary

and Rebecca

Inside the pavilion
Rebecca, another birder, Jimmy, Nadine, Tice, Dawn, Ross, Jerry, Steve

A fog rolled in while we waited.

We finally got the word they were unable to find another bird, so we packed up to leave.

We drove by a field of 'tree tomatoes,' a staple in Ecuadorian meals.

Tree tomatoes

We took time for restroom break before leaving and took the opportunity to take photos with the Paz family. We took several photos as we tried to get everyone together.
Vickie, Tice, Angel Paz, Mary, Dawn, Andy

Vickie, Ross, Tice, Angel, Mary, Jerry, Dawn, Andy, Nadine, Rebecca

adding Becki

and Garry

and Andres, Jimmy and Steve

and Carlos

Bird!

As we left, I got a photo of the refuge sign on the highway.

We stopped at Mirador Guaycapi restaurant for lunch, ate on the patio, and watched birds at the feeders.
Andres, at the rail, Mary, Vickie, Ross, Dawn, Tice, Jerry, Carlos, Becky, Nadine, Jimmy, Rebecca

Andres planned for us to visit Mitad del Mundo (the middle of the world monument), but took us to the town of Calacali, outside Quito, where the old monument, that had been in Quito, was moved when the bigger monument was built in Quito (where we visited in 2018). He was right that the bigger monument is in a much busier area and would have taken us a lot longer to visit.

Again, herding cats to get everyone together for a photo

Becky, Vickie, Ross, Tice, Mary, Rebecca, Nadine, Jimmy, Tice, Jerry, Garry at Mitad del Mundo

and Steve

Andres gave us an overview of the experiment involving the French and English to establish the shape of the earth.

Town center sign at Calacali

There were several signs around the square with historical and cultural information.

Mary and Steve at the monument

Garry and Becky at the monument

Steve and Mary took a selfie

Straightening the monument

Carlos and Andres, waiting for us to load up the bus across the street from the square

As we were driving around the edge of Quito, we passed a sculpture of the national bird, the Andean Condor.

Another town square, this one with a big maize sculpture

We made our way to the Hotel Carrión in time for a very nice dinner.
Mary, Andres, Tice, Jimmy, Becky, Garry, Jerry

The elegant table settings for our dinner

Rebecca used her translator app to talk with Carlos.

Vickie and Ross

There were lots of historical photos of the Carrión family on the walls.

I wonder what the story of this photo is.

One of the sitting rooms near the lobby

More antiques and old photos

There was a small but beautiful old bar in the lobby.

Our room was spacious.

There were lots of antiques in the room.

Including an intricately carved etegere

Our room had several (I assume old) paintings with religious themes or symbolism.

Last of Day 5: Fri, Mar 8, 2024--at Refugio Paz de las Aves, Mirador Guaycapi, and Hotel Carrión

Day 6: Sat, Mar 9, 2024--leaving Hotel Carrión, visiting paramo and Lake Mica, before driving to San Isidro Reserve Hotel

Our group at the upstairs dining area and viewing deck where we had lunch after our adventures to and from Lake Mica. Mary recorded the name of the place: Tambo Condor Bird Lodge.

Rebecca, taking photos of the sign in the square at Papallacta, where we made a restroom stop. From here, we drove on to San Isidro Reserve Hotel, where we arrived in time for supper.

Last of Day 6: Sat, Mar 9, 2024--left Hotel Carrión, visited paramo and Lake Mica, before driving to San Isidro Reserve Hotel

Day 7: Sat, Mar 10, 2024--at San Isidro Lodge, then to La Brisa hummingbird feeders

Birding from the deck at the lodge after breakfast
Tice, Becky, Jerry, Dawn, Andres, Vickie, Garry, Jimmy

Nadine, Tice, Becky, Jerry, Ross, Dawn, Andres, Vickie, Garry, Jimmy, Mary

Mary, supporting a tree leaning across the path to our room

Entrance to San Isidro Lodge, the beginning point of our morning walk along the road

Walking along the road outside San Isidro Lodge
Jimmy, Ross, Nadine, Dawn, Vickie, Andres, Rebecca, Jerry

Day 7: Sat, Mar 10, 2024--at San Isidro Lodge, then to La Brisa hummingbird feeders

Nadine, showing the butterfly that was very attracted to her, Becky getting its photo
Taken by JWD on road outside San Isidro Lodge on our morning walk

Morning walk on the road
Nadine, Jimmy, Rebecca, Mary, Garry, Tice, Andres, Becky, Dawn, Jerry, Vickie, Ross

In the afternoon, we went to the hummingbird feeders at La Brisa. Their dedication to hummingbirds extended to their making a concrete outline of a hummingbird on the bank of their pond.

Close-up of their waterfall and hummingbird

They had a building at the back of their view deck with a propane stove and a brick oven.

Last of Day 7: Sat, Mar 10, 2024--at San Isidro Lodge, then to La Brisa hummingbird feeders

Day 8, Mon, Mar 11, 2024--we started at San Isidro Lodge, then went to the upper Cuyuja region of Antisana National Park, to Guango Lodge, the home of ornithologist/artist Juan Manuel Carrión in Cumbaya, before returning to San José de Puembo Hotel.

After leaving San Isidro Lodge, we took the bus to the upper Cuyuja region of Antisana National Park and walked along the road.

Jerry, Andres, Vickie, Garry, Becky

Mary, Becky, Tice, Vickie, Dawn, Jerry, Nadine, Rebecca, Andres, Jerry, Garry

Mary, following Vickie, Dawn, Jerry, Ross, Tice, Andres, Becky, Nadine, Jimmy, Garry

Andres, showing Ross, Dawn (in front of Ross), Tice, Nadine, Vickie
Taken by Jerry Davis

Quijo River, where we saw Torrent Ducks and a White-capped Dipper

At Guango Lodge, a sign showing all the hummingbirds we could expect to see.

Sign to the river below the feeders and restaurant at Guango Lodge

At Guango Lodge, they were building new guest rooms with an interesting design.

Nadine and Rebecca found a flycatcher along the Papallacta River, so the rest of us tromped down the muddy trail to see it too, but it did not reappear.

Sign in the parking lot

We had a nice lunch at the restaurant at Guango Lodge.
Andres, Tice, Jimmy, Nadine, Ross, Dawn, Rebecca, Becky, Carlos, Vickie, Mary, Jerry

Accesorios para deportes acuáticos
A water sport accessories place we passed along the Quijos River, on the way to Cumbaya.

Rebecca, Carlos, Jerry, Andres, Garry, Ross, Dawn, Jimmy, Nadine, Becky, Tice, Vickie, Mary, Steve

Mary and I did not grasp the meaning of the hand-raising for this photo.

After our going-away dinner at San José de Puembo Hotel, we stepped outside, took a last look, then boarded the bus and headed for the airport.

Mary, Rebecca and Nadine, returning triumphantly from their bargain purchase of matching hummingbird shirts from a shop in the Quito airport, while we were waiting for our flight back to the states.

The evening of Mon, Mar 11, 2024