.................The North-East Buttress 300m 11........................
Start: To find the start of this route, continue down and N from the start of
Prometheus I for about 80m past a short vertical wall to find a vegetated gully.
This route is extremely long and route finding is difficult, but it does have
the merit of good rock and little vegetation.
1) 20m Easily up gully to TB.
2) 28m Up for 5m then R around the buttress below some loose blocks. Keep
traversing around to the R, ascending slightly to gain a spacious ledge and
natural gear belay.
3) 37m Ascend R from ledge to short wall. Traverse this to the R and above PR in
block. Now ascend tending R slightly up to TB.
4) 27m Cross to the L on sloping ramp up to TB below buttress. Stance on
spacious ledge.
5) 33m Straight up on good rock to PR belay below steep wall.
6) 18m Traverse R around buttress and up into a wooded gully, below a steep,
yellow groove. TB. You can escape from the route here by traversing L to meet
Cave 4.
7) 37m (crux). Up wall on L, traverse L over big loose block then up to yellow
patch below steep wall. Up bolt ladder (originally aided) with hard moves, then
traverse R below big block to BB.
8) 33m Pass under block traversing L, then straight up tending slightly R to
small bush and ledge. BB.
9) 33m Straight up past mangled bolt (useless) to second BR. Delicate move past
this straight up past two more mangled bolts. Gain easier ground. TB.
10) 33m Scramble out to L on sloping ledge which leads to NE shoulder.
Paul Conaghan, G. Hardy 1965