Xian (Xi'an), a town put on the map due to the discovery of the buried terra cotta soldiers a short distance outside of the main town. What we first noticed as we flew into town was all the heavy smog - both the visual and the smell. So it didn't surprise me when I later read that 16 of the 20 most polluted cities are located in China.
But within that smoggy world was a city full of life, color, and energy.