Cheung Chau (長洲) looks tiny on a map of Hong Kong, yet - like the interior of Doctor Who's Tardis there's far more to it than may first appear. With coastal trails, beaches, small rural valleys, and a village dotted with temples but with only one (police) car, Cheung Chau boasts plenty to see and do in a day; and plenty to eat once you've seen and done. Though its name means Long Island, Cheung Chau is better described as roughly dumbell-shaped, formed from a north-south aligned spit that connects two big chunks of granite. With a natural harbour to the west of the spit (now protected by breakwaters), Cheung Chau has become home to one of Hong Kong's main fishing communities, lately boosted by commuters who've made it home.